How to make a gazebo from a profile pipe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, recommendations, photos

The quality of outdoor recreation directly depends on the conditions.For a little Sunday relaxation at the dacha, a lawn under a wooden canopy in front of the house is also suitable. But if you plan to constantly spend time outdoors, then it is best to make a gazebo from a profile pipe. Build once and forget about problems with rain and wet grass.

Preparatory stage

Preparing to build a gazebo is no less important than the assembly process itself. To build you will need:

• choose a place on the site in front of the house;
• make a foundation in advance, the structure made from a profile pipe will turn out to be quite heavy, without a base the gazebo will quickly “lean”;
• choose a design, make a drawing and calculate the amount of materials needed.

Typically, a metal structure is assembled directly at the installation site. The profile pipe is cut into blanks, adjusted and welded with a welding inverter.

You just need to deliver to the dacha the required quantity of square profiles in 6 m pieces. But for this it is necessary that the country house has an electrical network connected. Moreover, its capabilities (power) should be sufficient to connect a welding machine.

Otherwise, you will have to make a gazebo from separate sections welded from a profile pipe. Or buy a ready-made construction of a summerhouse from a thin-walled galvanized profile, plastic and cellular polycarbonate.

Ready options

You can use existing structures as a prototype for a future gazebo. It is not necessary to copy the model down to the last detail, but particularly successful solutions should definitely be used.

Since a metal profile pipe will be used to build the gazebo, it is possible to make the frame light, almost openwork. But, on the other hand, it requires some experience in working with metal and constructing frame buildings from profile pipes.

For your first experience, you can choose a model with thickened vertical posts and a hipped roof.

The gazebo is built from a square pipe 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm. A simple metal profile structure with a convenient design, two entrances, no fencing (which children always like) and a well-thought-out roof layout.

If a more dramatic appearance is desired, decorative elements can be added to the design. For example, make a fence with forging elements, add top trim in the form of decorative arcs to the posts.

The gazebo will be taller and more spacious, but the cost of construction will increase by 40-50% due to additional decor and roofing made of bitumen tiles.

The roof does not have to be hipped. For example, gazebos for outdoor dining with a hip roof are very popular. The slopes are flatter, so you don’t have to worry about the wind tearing off the roofing.

For home gazebos, the roof is often made in the shape of an arch, welded from a profile pipe bent in an arc.

The design of the gazebo made from metal profiles turned out to be so successful that the design is used for the construction of various types of extensions and pavilions.

With an arched roof, small gazebos are often built from light profile pipe 25x25x2 mm.Such structures are often installed for relaxation during the lunch break. The gazebo turned out to be quite rigid, well protected from the wind; if the lining is done correctly, the interior space will not flood during heavy rain.

Often such gazebos are placed in the yard only for the summer season. Thanks to the use of a lightweight profile pipe, the weight is low (up to 60 kg). This allows you to move the frame and fix it on a concrete foundation or bury it directly into the ground, for example, next to the beds in a summer cottage.

Interesting: Do-it-yourself gazebo with a pitched roof.

Drawings and diagrams

In addition to light weight, a portable gazebo has another important advantage. It can be easily made in a garage or workshop, assembled, adjusted to size, disassembled, and transported to the country for further installation. A drawing of a building made from a 25x25x2 mm profiled pipe is shown below.

The most difficult model to build is considered to be a gazebo model with an octagonal hipped roof. Such structures are usually made with a polycarbonate roof, glazed windows, and an additional podium made of terrace boards.

The main difficulty lies in the precise installation of vertical posts made of 40x40 mm profiled pipe. In addition, you need to correctly assemble the triangles from which the sheathing for the roof is assembled. In order for the segment to be in the shape of an isosceles triangle, you will have to make a template to size, and in addition, you must correctly maintain the cutting angle of the profile pipe workpiece.

It is much easier to assemble a regular square gazebo with a hipped roof. The main thing is to correctly make the foundation for installing vertical posts from a profile pipe.

Pavilion-type gazebos are placed mainly on a dump foundation or a slab is poured with concrete.

In addition to the listed options, the so-called free picnic gazebos with barbecue and grill are popular.

Such structures are usually higher than ordinary gazebos, so the ceiling is reinforced with diagonal braces from a profile pipe. In addition, the design of the roof itself is different. The upper part is made in the form of a set of arches with a soft removable roof. The covering is removed while the barbecue is burning to make it easier to remove smoke.

Such gazebos do not have a foundation or side fencing. The vertical posts of the frame are installed in the pit and temporarily fixed with struts until the structure is finally leveled to the horizon. Upon completion of the assembly, the pit is filled with crushed stone with a small addition of sand, after which the pit is spilled with a very liquid cement mortar.

For you: We build a modern gazebo with a barbecue for the dacha with our own hands.

Which profile pipe to choose?

You can build from any type of profile. The thickness of the wall depends on the area of ​​the base and the height of the gazebo. For example, for a model with an octagonal hip roof, it is better to use single 50x50 mm profile pipes with a wall thickness of 2.5-3 mm.

But it is better not to use a profile that is too large. Firstly, it is quite expensive, and secondly, profile pipes 40x40 mm, 50x50 mm are only suitable for vertical racks. All other parts of the gazebo will need to be made from blanks 20x20 mm, 40x20 mm, 30x30 mm. So it’s better to buy a profile with a smaller cross-section, but in larger quantities. And the vertical posts under the roof of the gazebo can be made from corrugated pipe welded into a package.

Therefore, to build a small gazebo, it will be enough to buy a profile pipe of three main sizes:

• 40x20 mm;
• 30x30 mm;
• 20x20 mm.

Even scraps of material will be used. But you need to take into account that, without experience, welding a thin-walled profile of a small cross-section (20-30 mm) is much more difficult than a 40-50 mm corrugated pipe.

Construction stages

For your first experience, it is best to choose a lightweight version of the gazebo with an arched roof and inclined posts. The dimensions of the base are 160x200 cm, the height under the roof is 170-200 cm.

After choosing a project, you need to select a location for installation. If you plan to relax in the heat of the day, then choose the northern or northwestern part of the house. The place should be dry, with sandy soil.

If the soil is clayey, rocky or black soil, then after laying out the foundation you will need to fill the site with dry sand up to a 20 cm layer. For one building you will need 2-3 m3 dry sifted sand. This is called a sanitary barrier.

Foundation

The site will need to be cleared of grass, the top (up to 10 cm) layer of soil with roots must be cut off, and all this removed. Compact the area and fill it with fine gravel. For a small gazebo, it is best to make a pile foundation.

For example, drive eight supports made of asbestos-cement pipes, 110 mm in diameter, into the ground to a depth of 40 cm, so that heads 10-15 cm high remain above the surface. The blanks will need to be pre-coated with hot resin.

Holes for pipes are drilled into the ground using a garden drill to a depth of 45 cm. Sand and fine gravel should be placed at the bottom. After installing the blanks from the cut ACC into the pits, they will need to be aligned (settled) so that the heads of all supports are in the same plane.

This can be done using a building level and a pair of painting cords stretched diagonally between the supports. The remaining free space between the support and the ground is filled with gravel sand (sand and fine gravel screenings).

The same mixture is used to cover the entire area allocated for the foundation; it is enough to make a layer of 3-4 cm. After installing the gazebo, an additional sanitary layer of sand is poured. There should be a ventilation gap of 5-7 cm between the lower contour and the sand. Thus, the sand will dry out and the profile pipe from which the base is welded will not rust.

The protruding part of the asbestos-cement supports will need to be painted with oil or bitumen paint.

At the last stage, the frame will need to be secured to pile pipe supports. Therefore, first, even at the stage of pouring concrete, a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 15-20 cm is inserted into each asbestos-cement pile. After leveling, the gazebo can be tied with soft steel wire or “grabbed” by welding.

Important! Any heavy building assembled from a profile pipe can be erected on asbestos-cement recessed supports. For structures made of aluminum profiles or wooden beams, the foundation is made columnar, with partial penetration into the ground by 10-15 cm.

If there is heaving soil at the dacha site, then for any types of buildings made from a profile pipe it is best to use a slab foundation. You can determine the degree of heaving by looking at the porch or foundation blind area.

If in winter (January-February) the soil rises strongly on its own and partially lifts the parts of the supports of the porch group, then according to the instructions it is better to make a slab foundation. It will require more physical effort, but overall the design is simpler.

Step-by-step process for making a slab:

1. Dig a hole the size of the gazebo, 30-35 cm deep.
2. Cover the bottom with sand, crushed stone, level and compact.
3. Lay downed timber or slab along the edges of the pit. This will be formwork, its height should be up to 10 cm above ground level.
4. The bottom is covered with thick plastic film.
5. Additionally, you can lay 6 mm reinforcement bars and even tie them together, but this is not necessary.
6. Fill 1/3 with concrete, lay rubble stone and pour out the remaining concrete mixture so as to fill the formwork to the brim.

If a gazebo from a profile pipe is being built in hot weather, then the foundation should be covered with black plastic film and left for 3-4 days until it sets. During this time, you need to lift the film several times and spray the stove with water.

After 4-5 days, a gazebo of any size and weight can be erected on such a foundation. This scheme is used to build sheds from profile pipes with barbecues, brick stoves, and fireplaces.

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Bottom harness

The construction of the gazebo frame begins with the assembly of the lower contour-frame. In this case, it is a simple rectangle made of a 20x40 mm profile pipe. Using a grinder, you need to cut two pieces of 160 cm and 200 cm each.

Now it is important to weld them correctly in the form of a flat frame from a profile pipe. If the work is carried out in a metal workshop, then the workpieces can be laid out on a welding table (or on a concrete floor) and secured with clamps.

But for a dacha, you have to use improvised material as a table. Instead of a welding table, a homemade pallet made of boards and a slab is used. The main thing is to correctly lay the lumber on the ground so that the sections of profile pipe laid on top are located in the same plane.Pieces of profile pipe can be tied to the boards with wire to prevent movement during welding.

Next you need to weld the workpieces at the corners. For work, a welding electrode “Monolith” with a diameter of 3 mm is used. The welding current must be selected experimentally so as not to burn a hole in the profile pipe.

Installing vertical posts and painting the frame

The next step is to make vertical posts on which the roof will be supported. The parts are not quite ordinary, since they will be installed at an angle to the horizontal base of the gazebo.

The racks are cut from a 30x30 mm profile pipe, 180 cm long. One of the ends must be cut at an angle of 15O to the cutting plane. The stand is installed in the corner of the lower contour, slightly tilted outward, so that an angle of 105 is formed between the plane of the base and the workpieceO, and welded. First, with points at the corners of the profile pipe, then, after final alignment, they are welded with a continuous weld.

Important! For now, the racks are held on the lower frame only by a welding seam. Until the reinforcement is installed, you need to try not to touch them, so as not to break off or damage the seam.

Next, you need to weld metal reinforcement in the form of two horizontal jumpers onto the gazebo body. Each part is cut from a 20x20 mm profile pipe, 194 cm long.

Using a tape measure, set aside 80 cm on each rack (from the bottom trim) and weld two parallel crossbars. After this, one more vertical cross member (80 cm high) needs to be welded in the center on each side, at a distance of 100 cm from the sidewall.

Now you need to make struts and supports for the benches in the gazebo.Each part will be welded from two sections of profile pipe - 30x30 mm and scraps 40x20 mm, all 40 cm long. The angle between the sections is approximately 90O.

The supports are welded at the bottom of the vertical posts.

Another similar support-strut, but with an angle of 60O, are attached on each side to an additional central cross member.

All welding seams must be cleaned of slag, and the frame metal must be treated with a disinfectant (rust modifier). After a couple of hours, the treatment area is washed with a small amount of water and dried thoroughly. After a day, the frame of the gazebo will need to be primed for further painting.

Before painting, the profile pipe must be cleaned from rust to white metal. The surface must be degreased and primed. It is best to paint with enamels for exterior use. The paint color is chosen according to the climate.

Metal painted with white enamel does not heat up as much under the sun's rays. For a humid climate, for example, if a gazebo from a profile pipe was built by the sea, you need to look for special ship grades of paint. Otherwise the metal will rust badly.

Roof making and roofing installation

The most difficult stage of the work is the construction of the upper part of the gazebo. The overall appearance of the building and whether the roof will leak or not depends on how successful the foundation for the roofing is.

The roof will be made of an arched type from two profile pipes with a cross-section of 40x20 mm. The length of the workpiece is 290 cm. Each workpiece must be rolled on a pipe bending machine.

You can often find recommendations to make gable or flat roofs for gazebos from profile pipes. It is believed that making a frame for a flat roof slope is much easier than bend an arc the right size.

Perhaps making a gable roof is actually easier, since a pipe bending machine is not required. But in practice, gable roofs are easily broken by strong gusts of wind; in addition, the roof ridge requires careful insulation, otherwise a leak will appear in the first rain.

If you don’t have experience, then you don’t have to bend profile pipe blanks yourself, but go to a workshop. The result of the work can be easily checked using the following parameters:

• the initial profile pipe blank should be 290 cm long;
• after rolling, an arch (arc) is obtained, the distance between the ends should be reduced to 200 cm;
• the height of the arch installed vertically should be 55 cm.

The gazebo roof frame is assembled separately. To do this, you need to install one of the arches vertically with your hands and fix it using improvised means. For example, tie it to a pipe driven into the ground. It is important that the arc is strictly vertical.

Next, one horizontal cross member is welded to each end of the arch. It is made from a 40x20 profile pipe, 192 cm long.

The second arch is welded in a similar way. To prevent the arcs from falling, you will need to connect them together with additional jumpers. One is secured by welding at the top (ridge) point. One more, but from a 20x20 mm pipe, is welded from left to right at a distance of 60 cm from the ridge point.

For final assembly of the gazebo, the initial frame will need to be laid on its side. The roof base, assembled from a profile pipe, is moved so that the base of the arches comes into contact with the tops of the vertical posts of the gazebo.

All four main supports of the gazebo are welded to the roof frame.

Decorative finishing and moisture protection

The base of the gazebo made from a profile pipe is almost ready.Two benches will be added inside, which is enough for relaxation. But in most cases, in addition to benches, a metal table with a wooden top is added to the “furnishing” of the gazebo. You can make the base of the table yourself from scraps of a profile pipe and an arc.

The table top for the gazebo table is usually made of tongue and groove boards. The blanks are cut to size, dried and treated with several layers of drying oil or polyurethane varnish. Knock down the tabletop immediately after the coating has dried to a tack-free state.

It is recommended to make wooden slats for benches from linden. The wood is carefully sanded and treated with oil-wax for steam rooms. This is a guarantee that those vacationing in the gazebo will not have splinters or scratches on exposed parts of their bodies.

Interesting: How to make a swing with your own hands from metal.

Wall cladding

For the roofing of the gazebo, 8 mm thick cellular polycarbonate is used. It is quite durable, but bends easily. Laying it on the roof will not be difficult. The roof can be laid in transverse strips, but one continuous polycarbonate sheet 6 mm thick can be laid. There will be no seams, less risk of water leaking into the joints.

The walls can also be covered with polycarbonate, but in this case the ventilation of the interior space is greatly impaired. To decorate a summerhouse, nets for growing cucumbers are often used. You can stretch a regular camouflage net or make a screen against midges and mosquitoes.

Gazebos made from profile pipes are often left open or one (usually the outer) wall is covered with a thin wooden strip.

Article for you: We make a gazebo from scrap materials with our own hands.

Floor

The area under the gazebo can be laid out with cement-sand tiles imitating natural stone. But, as practice shows, the tiled floor turns out to be quite cold. Therefore, the base under the tiles must be insulated in advance.

It is much easier to sew up the bottom trim of the frame with 40 mm thick timber or a sanded inch board. The blanks need to be sanded and treated with polyurethane (yacht) varnish.

Finished floorboards are fixed with a gap of 3-5 mm. Self-tapping screws are screwed directly into the body of the profile pipe of the lower trim. This will not affect the strength of the structure. But you need to wrap the screws into the profile pipe so that the head is completely hidden in the wood. For safety, you can pour a few drops of varnish into the holes.

Useful: DIY gazebos made of wood.

Results

To build a simple gazebo from a profile pipe at the dacha, as follows from the video, you will need 2-3 days of free time and approximately 15 thousand rubles. for the purchase of materials. Tools can be borrowed. As a result, with just one weekend's investment, you can have a great summer vacation spot.

Tell us about your projects. Which gazebo design do you think can be considered the most successful for DIY construction and why? Also bookmark the article and share it on social networks.