Installing an outlet for a washing machine in the bathroom: an overview of the work technology
One of the prerequisites for the safe operation of a modern washing machine is the correct choice of the appropriate socket for it.Agree that strict adherence to the technology for installing the connection point is no less important in matters of safety.
Don't want to hire an electrician to install an outlet? Do you want to understand the intricacies of installation and connect the outlet yourself? We will try to clarify this issue - the article discusses in detail the options for sockets offered by the modern market.
Also from our material you will learn how to properly install a socket for a washing machine in the bathroom, what tools and materials are needed for this. The installation process is sufficiently illustrated with photos. A visual video tutorial on the rules for performing electrical installation work is given in the video block.
The content of the article:
Key conditions for connecting an outlet
The designs of old-built houses did not include installing an outlet in the bathroom for two main reasons:
- first – old housing facilities are not provided with a grounding system;
- second – in those days there were no powerful stationary household appliances “powered” by electricity.
Household appliances used two or three decades ago did not require permanent installation in bathrooms, due to their characteristic high level of humidity.
Current norms and standards allow connection points to be placed in rooms with high humidity, but subject to a number of mandatory rules:
- Connection is made only to serviceable wiring made of three-core copper cable.
- For installation, electrical sockets are used, the housings of which are distinguished by reliable protection from moisture.
- The electrical equipment is equipped with a protective shutdown device with an operating current within 10 mA.
- The power line must be equipped with a grounding loop so that the powerful device is connected through a protective contact.
Grounding is a strict condition for installing an outlet both in a separate bathroom and in a combined bathroom where there is excess humidity.
Information on how to install correctly socket with grounding discussed in our other article.
In residential buildings where grounding is not provided, a protective transformer copes with the task of extinguishing excess currents and disconnecting the line RCD device. The only thing is that their level of protection will be slightly lower.
Some owners are irresponsible when it comes to connecting powerful household appliances, using extension cords and tees for this.
You should not connect a washing machine, which is one of the powerful household electrical appliances, through an extension cord.
This is inconvenient and also dangerous.Indeed, with improper connection and installation, the likelihood of an emergency situation due to a short circuit increases, as a result of which even high-quality, expensive equipment fails prematurely.
If there is an inquisitive little fidget in the family, then the presence of extra wires in the public domain takes on special features.
Basic parameters of safe wiring
The wiring in the bathroom must not only function flawlessly, but also be safe.
Selecting the wiring type
In old buildings, built several decades ago, wires with aluminum conductors were mainly used. They are not suitable for connecting modern powerful equipment.
The washing machine may only be connected via a three-core cable with a copper core.
You may also find useful information about what types of wires are used for installing electrical networks in an apartment, reviewed here.
According to clause 7.1.40 of the current PUE In rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to install wiring in a closed way.
To do this, the cable coming from the distribution panel is placed in a groove selected in the wall so that it is hidden and does not even partially come to the surface.
This measure protects the cable from direct contact with water, which is known for its excellent conductive qualities.
For the same reason, when laying in a channel hollowed out in wood, for example, it is not allowed to place the electrical wire in a metal hose or in the cavity of a steel pipe.
The wire cannot be fixed with metal clamps without rubber gaskets. The mounting brackets themselves must have an anti-corrosion coating.
Determination of cable cross-section
In order for the electrical wiring to withstand the high load from a powerful household unit, it is necessary to correctly calculate cable section.
It is determined according to the same principle as when installing any other electrical equipment, taking into account the expected load. The power of the washing machine is indicated in the instructions supplied with it.
For laying power lines, only intact wires free of defects are used. All joints are carefully wrapped with electrically insulating self-adhesive tape.
The presence of distribution boxes in the bathroom, inside the hollow body of which the cables of connected devices are connected according to the diagram, is not allowed. Distribution boxes are always placed outside the bathroom.
Procedure for determining the cable cross-section:
- Find out the power of the connected electrical appliance. In most cases it does not exceed 3 kW.
- The cable cross-section is selected in accordance with the reference tables.
When connected socket block determine the total power of the devices “powered” from them and then, using the same reference tables, determine the permissible cable cross-section.
Even if the machine consumes less energy, experienced craftsmen recommend making a power reserve. After all, it is possible that over time, an obsolete unit can be replaced with more high-power new equipment.
It is recommended to use only copper wire for connection. In comparison with its aluminum “brother”, it is preferable because it has better electrical conductive properties.
Copper wire is capable of withstanding high voltage with a smaller cross-section: 2 kW of load per 1 mm of cross-section. Therefore, the space laid in the groove will take up half as much space. In addition, it is resistant to oxidation and, according to electricians, has a service life of over 30 years.
RCD and machine power
The cable leading a separate line to the bathroom is connected to the indoor distribution panel through an emergency shutdown device (RCD).
The leakage current of the protective device for connecting lines when fast protection is needed should be 10 mA. This is due to the fact that the bathroom is characterized by high humidity, and therefore the room is classified as a high-risk room.
A person feels the irritating effect of alternating current already at a value of 5-7 mA.
If the bathroom is “powered” by a group line, the maximum leakage current for connecting the electrical wiring should be 30 mA. Such devices are cheaper than 10 mA, but do not operate as quickly.
For installation in private houses and apartments, models combined with a circuit breaker for wiring protection are most often used - differential switches.
You may also be interested in information about differences between RCD and difavtomat, discussed in our other article.
Modular devices provide protection on three “fronts”: from power supply overload, from exceeding the permissible current leakage value and from short circuit on the line.
If there is no stationary RCD in the electrical distribution panel in the apartment, a portable type RCD is used. They are connected to an existing outlet, and then the electrical equipment is connected.
But the RCD itself is not a complete protection. To protect the wiring and the unit itself from short circuits, a separate residual current circuit breaker is installed.
Traditionally, a 16A machine is used. In any case, the operating current rating of the RCD must be one category higher than the rated current of the input circuit breaker.
Places for installing connection points
When choosing the location of the connection point, the key importance is not so much the proximity to the “powered” household appliance, but rather the distance from sources of moisture and the height relative to the floor level. There are only 1-2 such safe places in a shared bathroom.
When choosing the location of the connection point, they are guided by the following parameters:
- All electrical sockets for connecting household appliances are placed at a height of at least 60 cm from the floor level. This requirement is explained by the fact that in case of burst pipes and heavy leaks, minimize contact with electricity, which can provoke an emergency situation.
- In relation to objects that are sources of water or splashes, sockets are placed maintaining a distance of 60 cm. This solution also reduces the risk of moisture getting on the connected device, making its operation safer.
When determining the installation height of sockets, you should be guided by the principle “the higher, the better.”
High-quality renovation of an apartment does not yet guarantee that at the perfect moment there will not be a stream from a common pipe, or a “waterfall” from neighbors living on the floor above. Therefore, some experts recommend installing power sockets at a height of 130 cm from the floor level.
When designing wiring in a bathroom, you should be guided by clause 7.1.47 of the current PUE.
According to it, the room is divided into 4 zones:
- Red zone – referred to as zero, located within the washbasin, bathtub and in the shower area. No sockets can be placed in it.
- First zone – directly above or below the shower stall, bath bowl, covering an area with a radius of 0.6 meters. Allows the installation of equipment necessary for plumbing operation with a power of up to 12 V. There should be no sockets in this area.
- Yellow or second zone – placed every 60 cm, water heating devices are connected to it. Sockets cannot be installed either.
- Green or third zone – from zone “2” it is located at a distance of 2.4 m. It contains all sockets of the IPX4 standard and household units “powered” from the network, connected through an RCD with a grounding contact.
Sockets should not be placed on cold walls, on the surface of which condensation accumulates.
Sockets used to connect a washing machine in the bathroom must meet the following requirements:
- Cases waterproof sockets They are equipped with protective covers to prevent the penetration of moisture.
- The inside of the devices is insulated with dense rubber gaskets, which minimize the likelihood of a spark occurring between the contacts.
The level of protection of waterproof sockets is determined by the “IP” marking. The higher the digital indicator, the more reliable the device. Thus, models of class “IPX1” protect only from small splashes, and “IPX4” are not afraid of even direct contact with water jets.
Subtleties of connecting an outlet for a washing machine
When planning to connect a washing machine in the bathroom of a house that is more than 20 years old, first of all carefully inspect the wiring. Most likely there are aluminum wires there.
They cannot be used to connect powerful appliances, including a washing machine.Since the conductivity of an aluminum core is almost two times lower than a copper one, and when oxides appear on the surface, the value decreases even more.
To lay a power line to connect a washing machine, you will need a cable with aluminum conductors that are thicker than copper ones, which will not have the best effect on the total cost. Quality wire connections must be perfect to prevent overheating.
When operating the power point, you will have to regularly check and tighten the screw terminals.
Be prepared for the fact that replacing outdated aluminum wiring with a copper analogue will cost a pretty penny. But the safety of household members and the normal operation of equipment directly depend on it.
Some owners install one connection point in the bathroom for all electrical appliances. To do this, lay a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, to which a daisy-chain block of sockets is connected, which is used to “power” not only the washing machine, but also other electrical appliances.
Experienced craftsmen do not recommend doing this, but still advise laying a separate wire to the washing machine.
When installing several sockets, it is advisable to arrange the connection points as compactly as possible. The control panel for the heated floor can also be connected to the socket block.
As a protective element, you can install a switch for the outlet itself.But it should be considered only as a safety option, acting as an addition to the overall security system.
Connection point installation technology
At the time of installation of the socket, there should already be a machine or RCD installed in the electrical panel, and the wire itself should be routed into the bathroom.
Before proceeding with the installation of the connection point, you should make sure that the wire is not live by touching the ends of the cable stripped from the braid with an indicator screwdriver
Step #1 - laying the cable and installing the socket box
To perform hidden wiring in the wall cavity, a groove is made using a hammer drill. It is laid along the shortest path under the ceiling parallel to the floor surface.
The line to the socket is lowered straight down perpendicularly. The wiring is fixed in the grooves using dowel clamps.
To mark the location of the socket, the device body is applied to the center of the laid strip. Use a marker to make marks for drilling the hole. Having marked the point of placement of the socket, using a hammer drill equipped with a D 68 mm crown, make a hole in the wall.
The walls of the hole made are cleaned of dust residues and crushed wall elements. A socket box is installed in the prepared seat.
The choice of socket depends on the type of wall. For installation in concrete, mounting blocks without any fixation elements are used. For drywall - plastic cups equipped with pressure plates to allow fixation on the back side of the sheet. Read more about socket box installation technologies can be read in another article.
The installed socket box will contain a terminal block for connections to electrical wiring hidden in the wall.
Step #2 - Connecting the Terminal Block
Decorative elements are removed from the socket body, leaving only the terminal block. The fastening bolts at the terminals are loosened, with the help of which the bare ends of the connected wires will be fixed.
For ease of connection, the insulation of the supplied wires is made in different colors. The ground wire is painted in a green-yellow braid, the phase wire is presented with a red or brown sheath, and the neutral wire is in blue or blue insulation.
The ends of the wires removed from the plastic “glass” are brought to the contacts and inserted into the terminals. The phase and neutral wires are connected to the current-carrying terminals: phase on the right, neutral on the left. The grounding conductor is connected to the terminal designated by the abbreviation “PE”.
Under no circumstances connect the “zero” to the grounding terminal. Otherwise, if the working “zero” in the panel burns out, the reverse “phase” will break through on the body of the machine connected to the network.
The socket body with connected contacts is fixed to the socket box with screws or spacer tabs.After fixing the block, check the quality of the contact connections and the tightness of the bolts on the terminal blocks.
At the final stage, a decorative cover is installed.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Tips for installing connection points in the bathroom:
How to lay a wire for a washing machine:
Work related to electrical wiring belongs to the high-risk category. And they should be performed with the utmost caution..
If you are not able to correctly assess the situation and are not confident in your own abilities, you should not experiment. It is better to entrust this complex task to a professional electrician.
Have you independently installed an outlet for connecting a washing machine? Tell us what was the most difficult for you and how the connection point functions now.
Perhaps you have any questions after studying our instructions? Feel free to ask us by filling out the comment form below this article.
In general, almost everything comes down not to installing the outlet itself, but to organizing the correct dedicated wiring. This is probably why now, in many even new houses, washing machines are installed directly in the kitchen, and not in the bathroom. Of course, there is also water there and precautions must be taken, but the kitchen is a room with much less humidity.
Still, washing machines are mostly installed in the kitchen because there is more free space there. If there are no problems with space in the bathroom, then it is much more convenient to install it there. With a competent approach to connections (including sockets), higher humidity is not important.
During the renovation of the bathroom, I installed a moisture-proof outlet. It was already grounded and closed with a lid on top. The installation did not cause any problems and did not require much effort. I was pleased with the socket, as I accidentally had to check for leaks - my son sprayed it with a water pistol. Not a single drop got inside. The washing machine works fine.
I don’t quite understand about the RCD and the additional circuit breaker. It turns out that the RCD simply won’t cut off the electricity supply at the right time? Or am I misunderstanding something? For example, many powerful devices are already equipped with an RCD on a wire with a plug. When electricity breaks through, the ouzo is triggered and turns off the device. Don't others work on the same principle?
Good afternoon, Valentin. The circuit breaker is triggered by short circuits to ground, neutral conductor, or other types of metal short circuit. For example, if the insulation of a washing machine is pierced onto the body, which is grounded, as required by the PUE, the machine will work.
A differential RCD will turn off a washing machine that is not grounded. For example, a phase has shorted to the housing, and there is nowhere for the current to flow - the legs of the machine are plastic, and current begins to flow through the neutral wire, but not enough to trip the circuit breaker. You walk up to the washing machine, touch the body and the RCD “instantly” turns off the electrical line going to the machine. You can read the details in the section "RCD and automatic machines».
Hello! I purchased a WLG Bosch 20160 washing machine, power 2.3 kW. Since the bathroom is very small in size, I placed the machine in the kitchen.I installed an Etude socket for it (manufacturer Schneider Electric, rated current 16A, rated voltage 220V, also the apartment has 4 single-pole 16A circuit breakers and one double-pole 25A). Please clarify whether I can use such an outlet; I haven’t plugged the car into the network yet.
And another question: in the kitchen there is a Hansa gas-electric stove with an electric oven (total power 2 kW - both heating elements). Is it permissible to install, instead of a single socket in the same socket box, a double socket from the same manufacturer with similar characteristics and use the devices alternately without removing the plugs from the socket?
Thank you!
Good day, Sergey. The listing of installed circuit breakers does not give an idea of the electrical supply circuit of your apartment.
If a 25-amp machine is mounted on the input, then it will withstand a washing machine (it consumes 10.5 A), but when working simultaneously with an electric oven (it consumes 9 A), it can be knocked out by the starting current of the machine (I won’t say one hundred percent).
Surely the 16-amp circuit breaker is on the socket group - it will be knocked out by these two powerful electrical receivers. The 16-amp outlets themselves will not be affected. The load-bearing capacity of the wire going to the double socket must be checked.
In general, the issue of power supply to apartments is covered in detail by “SP 256.1325800.2016” (a screenshot of the required section is attached to the answer). Don’t invent, follow the Rules and read the articles in the “wiring installation" on our website.
What nonsense. RCD does not protect against short circuit