Do-it-yourself sewerage in a dacha: how to properly make a local sewer system

The improvement of a private home is accompanied by the laying of communications that form the basis for the comfort and well-being of the owners.Even a temporary home - a summer cottage - cannot do without a simple sewer system designed to collect wastewater.

Let's try to find out how to install a sewer system in a dacha with your own hands and what standards are fundamental.

Nuances of arranging a country sewer system

As you know, dacha communities and country villages are located far from large populated areas, so owners of garden houses cannot count on centralized service. The way out of this situation is to organize a separate local system for each suburban area separately.

In elite villages, powerful VOCs are often installed that can simultaneously serve several large cottages, but this is rather an exception to the general rule. More often, owners of garden plots ranging from 6 to 15 acres make do with more modest budget devices - cesspools or simple septic tanks.

Diagram of a simple sewer system
Scheme of the simplest sewerage system in a country house: simple internal wiring (sink + toilet), a straight pipe for household waste, a cesspool with an access road for special equipment

Both can be built from inexpensive building or alternative materials, such as:

  • factory-made concrete blanks;
  • red or white brick;
  • cement mortar (to create a sealed monolithic container);
  • car tires.

There is another way, more expensive, but quite effective - installing a ready-made factory container made of modified plastic, equipped with a pipe for connection to a pipe, ventilation and a technical hatch.

It is prohibited to dig a drain hole without creating a sealed tank, as this is contrary to sanitary standards. Sewage, teeming with pathogenic bacteria and chemically aggressive substances, goes directly into the soil and groundwater, polluting it.

Option for installing a country street toilet
Option for installing a country street toilet. The cesspool partially extends beyond the “house”, and a technical hatch for emptying the storage tank is located near the building - this makes it possible to do without a pipeline

There is also no point in installing expensive biological treatment stations, since the volume of wastewater will most likely be minimal, and the treatment facility will more closely resemble the same storage tank.

So it turns out that the best option is a large cesspool or a septic tank-type structure. On a large plot there may be several cesspools, for example, a peat pit for an outdoor toilet and two storage tanks - at the bathhouse and at the house.

Possible sewer schemes

Depending on the number of residents, albeit temporary ones, the number of plumbing fixtures, the total number of drains, and objects connected to the sewerage system, the schemes can be completely different.

All parts of the system have distinctive features:

  • internal wiring;
  • simple or branched pipeline;
  • type of pit or septic tank.

Let's look at a few of the most popular schemes.

A modern dacha bears little resemblance to a utility room or barn. Owners of even modest suburban plots are trying to build high-quality, reliable, roomy housing, so a two-story building has long ceased to be a rarity. The optimal wiring option for two floors is shown in the diagram:

Wiring diagram in a two-story house
The toilet and bathroom are located on the second floor (sometimes just a modernized attic space), and the kitchen is downstairs. Pipes from the plumbing lead to a riser located at the wall closest to the septic tank

In small one-story houses, a toilet + sink set is usually installed. The shower, if present, is located on the street, not far from the garden area.

The wastewater from the toilet enters the inner pipe, then comes out and moves by gravity to the septic tank.

Diagram of the riser and sleeve structure
Diagram of the structure of the riser and sleeve for designing the transition of the pipe to the outside. The cross-section of the main line, as well as the riser, must be at least 100 mm, and the pipe fragment in the wall must be wrapped in a sheet of metal and thermal insulation

The cesspool is most often placed near the building, at a distance of 5-10 m. Less than 5 m is not recommended according to sanitary standards; more than 10 m may cause difficulties when laying the pipeline. As is known, to ensure the movement of wastewater by gravity it is necessary sewer pipe slope - approximately 2 cm per 1 m of highway.

It turns out that the further away the hole is, the deeper you will have to dig. A container buried too deeply is inconvenient for maintenance.

Layout of the drain pit
Layout of the drainage pit. This is the most popular option among summer residents, which is chosen because of its low cost, simplicity of design and installation method.

Increasingly, instead of a cesspool, they are constructing two-chamber septic tank or a cesspool with overflow into a filter well. Vacuum cleaners will also have to be called, but much less frequently.

diagram of a two-chamber septic tank
Diagram of a self-made two-chamber septic tank. The filter well receives partially clarified wastewater and continues to purify it, transporting it through a sand and gravel filter into the ground

Common dacha sewerage schemes can be supplemented with branched internal or external wiring, connection of more waste disposal points, a more efficient septic tank, and a filtration field.

Instructions for building a local system

There is no single plan for installing an autonomous sewer network, however, almost any system consists of three main stages - laying pipes inside the house with the connection of plumbing fixtures, wiring the external pipe and installing a cesspool (septic tank).

There are exceptions - for example, a complete lack of internal wiring, when all hygiene facilities are located on the street (shower, toilet, washbasin). Let's consider the full option.

Drawing up a project taking into account the standards

Half the success is correct design, which can be done in two ways: independently and with the involvement of specialists.

The first method is good when there are no plans to construct serious structures on the site - a septic tank, a swimming pool, a filtration field, a filtration well. Suppose you are planning to build an outdoor “birdhouse” toilet, which at the same time serves as a garbage disposal for household waste, and instead of full-fledged sinks for washing hands and dishes, you decide to install a regular washbasin.

To build a toilet on the street, it is enough to dig a hole, equip it with a sealed tank, select the optimal building layout and conclude an agreement on regular waste removal.

Country washbasin on the street
The washbasin, like the outdoor shower, can be connected to a plastic storage tank installed on a raised surface, the water in which is heated by solar energy

If you plan to make complex in-house wiring, install a septic tank, lay pipes from the house, bathhouse and summer kitchen, it is better to contact engineers who will draw up a well-founded project based on the layout of the house and landscape features.

In any case, when constructing a drainage pit or septic tank, you must be guided by SanPiN standards, according to which the distances from the waste collection tank to the nearest objects should be as follows:

Distance from septic tank to objects
The interval from the septic tank to the well (well) completely depends on the composition of the soil: for clayey soils - 25-30 m, for sandy and sandy loam soils - at least 50 m

When choosing plumbing and sewerage equipment, we also recommend relying on the technical conditions and GOST standards, which regulate the use of certain materials.

For example, to lay an external main it is necessary to use only special external type pipes (smooth and corrugated products made of PVC, PP or HDPE in orange). Fittings must match the pipe material and diameter.

How to make internal wiring?

The internal wiring diagram includes a network of horizontally located pipes, which are connected to plumbing fixtures on one side and to a riser on the other. The riser, in turn, is connected to the main line leading to the storage facility.

It is advisable to lay internal communications during the construction of a house - this makes it easier to arrange holes in the walls and mask some parts of the internal pipeline.

Laying of internal sewerage pipes
By choosing high-quality polypropylene products and creating a hermetically sealed junction, you can “sew” part of the pipes into the floor, leaving only technical hatches for maintenance

When installing pipes, it is very important to take into account the slope, since in country houses they usually do not use special equipment, and the movement of drain water occurs by gravity.The amount of inclination is selected based on the diameter of the pipes: for large (150 mm in diameter) pipes - about 8 mm/linear meter, for medium (from 100 to 110 mm) - 20 mm/linear meter, for products with a minimum cross-section (50 mm ) – 30 mm/linear m.

When installing plumbing fixtures, it is recommended to equip water seals, which serve as a trap for unpleasant odors. It is better to place the shower or sinks higher, and the toilet at the lowest point, as close to the riser as possible.

Scheme for connecting a sink to a pipe
Scheme for connecting a sink to a pipe. The optimal diameter of pipes leading to the riser is 50 mm, the diameter of the riser itself is 100 mm or 110 mm

The order in which the pipes are connected and assembled may differ, but usually the riser is installed first, then the pipes are supplied, and at the very end the plumbing fixtures are connected.

If a gas or solid fuel boiler is installed at the dacha and a hot water supply system is functioning, the minimum set of toilet + sink is supplemented with a shower stall or bathtub. Accordingly, the internal branch of the local sewage system for a dacha in this case will be more difficult.

Bathroom in a wooden country house
Fully equipped bathroom in a wooden country house. When choosing a shower cabin, focus on simpler models that do not require strong pressure and high pressure in the pipes

The final point in laying the intra-house wiring is the installation of an adapter in the wall of the house, which is a metal protective sleeve. The ideal solution is to lead the pipe in the foundation of the house into a hole located below the freezing level of the soil.

Rules for laying external pipes

The choice of pipes of the appropriate quality is not the only condition for the proper installation of a pipeline connecting the intra-house network with a cesspool or septic tank.There are rules and regulations that must be followed when burying communications in the ground.

The first rule concerns the depth of the trench: pipes must be laid below the freezing level so that the liquid sewer medium does not freeze and rupture the pipeline with the onset of cold weather. On the other hand, the depth should not be too great, since it is necessary to maintain a slope - at least 2 cm / 1 m of trenches. It turns out that the difference between the depths of the beginning and end of a 10-meter ditch will be 20 cm.

Inspection well
If the pipeline section has a length of more than 10 m, connections or turns, inspection wells must be installed at pipe joints and bends - to monitor and eliminate blockages

In order not to make the trenches too deep even in the northern regions, pipes are laid at a depth of 50-70 cm, carefully insulating all areas.

The following is used as a heat-insulating material:

  • polystyrene foam shell;
  • foam boxes;
  • basalt fiber;
  • mineral wool;
  • penoizol;
  • foamed polyethylene;
  • penofol;
  • expanded clay backfill.

In the northern regions, to increase efficiency, materials are combined, for example, pipes are covered with foam insulation and sprinkled with expanded clay on all sides.

There is another heating method - using electric cable. However, energy-dependent insulation is optimal for permanent residences. For dachas, where visitors are extremely rare during the cold season, conventional insulation is sufficient. If the pipes do freeze and an ice plug forms, it is recommended to try to break through it with boiled water.

More information about the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground can be found in this material.

Installation of a cesspool

The procedure and timing of arranging a drainage pit depend on its type. For example, the installation of a factory-made plastic container is carried out in 1 day, and the construction of a concrete monolithic tank, which requires complete hardening of the solution, lasts at least a month.

Digging a pit can be combined with constructing a trench and laying pipes. The hole is dug according to the size of the storage tank, but so that approximately 0.3 m is left on each side for processing and backfilling. The volume is chosen based on the needs of the residents.

Cesspool made of concrete rings
One of the options for a cesspool made of concrete rings. Usually, for country use, a tank of 2-3 pieces is sufficient, provided that it is filled to 1/2 or 1/3 of the volume (the wastewater level should not rise above the inlet)

To excavate soil, use construction equipment or shovels with buckets.After clearing the lower part of the pit, the bottom is reinforced with a drainage sand and gravel layer (from 20 to 40 cm thick).

If the tank is light, it is advisable to place a concrete slab on the bottom (or make a concrete screed) and secure the tank with anchors, giving it stability. For the same purpose, during backfilling, dry cement is added to the soil so that a reliable waterproof ring is formed around the container.

Prefabricated structures - made of bricks, rings, cinder blocks - must be covered with two layers of waterproofing on the outside and inside so that the contents of the tank do not fall into the ground and mix with groundwater. Another important condition is the installation of a ventilation riser that removes gases to the outside.

After installation and connection of the pit to the pipeline, the hole is backfilled and the neck is formed. The upper hole, which performs technical functions, is covered with a durable lid.

How is a septic tank different from a cesspool?

Many people are interested in how to make an effective sewer system at their dacha so that waste water not only accumulates in a cesspool, but is also partially purified. The only way to make visits to sewer trucks less frequent is to install a septic tank, either factory-made or home-made, instead of a cesspool.

It is worth distinguishing between two types of septic tanks. Some of them actually purify water up to 68 - 97%, because the purification process occurs under the influence of anaerobic and aerobic bacteria. The lowest degree of purification is represented by systems in which wastewater is processed through sedimentation and the action of anaerobes.

They are complemented filter wells, filtration fields, infiltrators that perform groundwater post-treatment of wastewater.

If aerobes are involved in the operation of the septic system, then the second compartment is equipped with a compressor for supplying air and a special load necessary for their fruitful life.

The breeding ground for them is a suspension of clarified sewage, which moved to the second compartment along the overflow. Systems with aerobic purification produce the most purified water, which can be discharged onto the terrain or into the ground without additional treatment.

Septic tank with drainage into a ditch
After “cleaning procedures” in the chamber, the liquid enters the filter well, onto the filtration field, or is forcibly pumped into a ditch using a pump.

The second type is a two-chamber storage tank, in which the first chamber also serves to separate fractions, and the second – to filter clarified water. The first tank is cleaned with the same regularity as the removal of waste from the cesspool; dirt is removed from the second tank less frequently. This is usually a gravel filter replacement that replaces the bottom.

It should be remembered that activated sludge accumulates in septic tanks over time, which can later be used as fertilizer. The contents of the cesspool can also be used, but under one condition: if the peat waste processing technology is followed.

A biological treatment station is most effective, but an expensive installation, as noted above, is not practical for temporary housing. Therefore, as a sample, we will consider the instructions for installing a septic tank from ready-made factory-made concrete blanks.

Stages of construction of a septic tank from concrete rings

Installation of the treatment plant for their cylindrical billets takes place according to the standard scheme. The process is simplified due to the large size of the parts, but for the same reason complexity arises - the mandatory rental of construction equipment and the participation of a team of workers.

To build a septic tank, you will need 2 sets of parts, since it will consist of two tanks. The function of the first is accumulative, the second is filtering.

The construction of a septic tank from concrete rings is carried out in several standard stages:

Preparing a pit according to the size of the structure

In the place indicated in the project, using a handy tool (shovel), winch or mini-excavator, dig a hole 2-3 rings deep + a neck. To the height of the assembled structure, add 30-40 cm for the foundation: 15-20 cm of sand + 15-20 cm of gravel (crushed stone, river pebbles). The drainage layer serves as a reliable base and filtering “cushion”.

The length of the pit should be such that it can accommodate two tanks connected by a short overflow.

Collapse of pit walls
Sandy soil at the pit construction site can cause problems in the form of crumbling walls. If there is no way to strengthen the walls, it is better to dig a wide hole, and after installing and waterproofing the septic tank, fill it with heavier soil containing clay

The soil should not be removed from the site - it will be useful for backfilling. The remains can be used to form landscape objects, for example, flower beds.

Installation of concrete blanks

Concrete rings are mounted one on top of the other, secured at the joints with staples and sealed with special gaskets.Manufacturers have simplified the installation of the lower ring of the storage tank - they have come up with a part with a solid bottom, which does not require additional weight.

One or two more parts are placed on it, covered with an overlap with a hole, a neck is placed on top and a technical hatch with a lid is equipped.

Installation of concrete tanks
The second chamber is equipped in the same way, but instead of a blind lower part, a regular ring is used. For a filter well, the drainage layer is not enough - it is necessary to make a dense filter with a thickness of at least 50 cm

Now there is no need for any individual calculations. The dimensions of the blanks are standard, and you can always find out from the manufacturer what volume of wastewater the selected combination of elements is designed for.

Waterproofing measures

A concrete septic tank made from individual parts must be covered with waterproofing. In practice, two methods are used: applying protective material on both sides or applying waterproofing on the outside, and only finishing the seams on the inside.

Waterproofing a septic tank with bitumen mastic
One of the protection options that is suitable for objects buried in the ground. A layer of bitumen waterproofing is applied to porous concrete, after which the walls of the parts become more durable and waterproof

There are modern, deeply penetrating materials that surpass the bitumen layer in technical characteristics (for example, Penetron), but they are more expensive.

Pipe connection and testing

The fully assembled structure is combined into a single whole and connected to a pipe leading from the house. To do this, holes are made in concrete blanks for an overflow - a short section of pipe, then the same hole - for the entrance of the sewer line. All elements are hermetically connected and covered with waterproofing.The ventilation riser is removed.

To check the functionality and tightness of the structure, the first container is filled with water. Then, when the first wastewater enters the storage tank, a bioactivator can be used to make the waste processing process more efficient.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To better understand the process of organizing a sewer system, we suggest watching useful videos.

Secrets of laying external pipes:

Overview of internal wiring done by yourself:

Important points when building a cesspool:

As you can see, installing an autonomous sewer system at your dacha requires certain engineering knowledge and skills. If in doubt, it is better to seek help from specialists: there are many companies that successfully design and install local sewer systems.

Do you have experience in installing sewerage systems in your country house? Please share some practical advice with our readers, tell us what you need to pay attention to when setting up an autonomous system - the feedback form is located under the article.

Visitor comments
  1. Vitaly

    A person who understands at least a little how the sewage system works has no problems organizing it independently. But unfortunately, I’m not like that, for me it’s all very difficult. Therefore, even for the dacha, where we visit at most 5 times a year, I called specialists for such work. They dug a large trench, laid pipes and installed a septic tank. It's quite enough because we don't live here.

  2. Olga

    So it turns out that all the crap from the sewer (detergents, etc.) is absorbed into the soil and poisons the environment... Where is the cleaning or filtration system?? And we live in the country for six months and we have two drinking wells into which this sewage can get... Horrible!

    • Expert
      Nikolay Fedorenko
      Expert

      Of course, if you do it “the old fashioned way,” namely an ordinary cesspool, then it is far from safe. Sewage can get into groundwater, as well as into a well and anywhere else. Therefore, people who live long enough or on a permanent basis in country houses where there is no central sewerage system have recently abandoned such unsafe solutions.

      In fact, if you think about it in the future, installing septic tanks (ready-made or building them yourself) is beneficial, since there will be no pollution on the site. The article presents both complex and simple budget solutions. In any case, a filtration system must be present.

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