How to connect an LED switch: rules for connecting an illuminated switch

To perform basic electrical work, it is absolutely not necessary to call a specialist.Knowing how to connect an LED switch, you can install it yourself. Agree, this skill will be especially useful if there are major repairs and updating of electrical wiring.

We will tell you about the connection diagram, installation method and difficulties that may arise during installation. You can also improve an ordinary switch with your own hands by making it backlit.

How a backlit switch works and works

We will describe the design of an LED switch using the example of a two-key backlit device.

The mechanism consists of the following elements:

• one input, two output terminals;
• current limiting resistor;
• moving contacts.

The design also includes a housing, a decorative panel and key pads.

Some models of backlit switches have a ready-made connected backlight mechanism. They also produce models in which the backlight conductors need to be connected to the terminals independently.

When the contacts of the LED switch open, the current flowing through the phase wire flows to the resistor, then to the LED or neon lamp. Next, the voltage passes through the lighting fixture and exits through zero.

Since the backlight is connected through a current-limiting resistor, the voltage in the network decreases and is enough for illumination, but not enough for the chandelier to operate.

This is how an LED switch works. If the lighting lamp burns out or is unscrewed, the circuit will be open and the backlight in the device will not work (+)

After the switch contacts close, the current, which always moves along the circuit with the least resistance, passes through the network that powers the lighting lamp - in this circuit the voltage is practically zero. The current also flows to the backlight circuit, but it is so small that it is not enough even to operate a neon lamp.

The circuit includes a current-limiting resistor and an LED or neon lamp. Otherwise, the design and connection method are the same as for a conventional device (+)

Application of LED Switch

A backlit switch is installed where it is dark even during the daytime, and constant use of the lighting device is impractical. It is also used in rooms where access is required at night.

A switch with LED backlight, just like a regular one, can be solid-body or consist of one, two or more keys

The more light sources, the more keys on the switch will be required. To control lighting consisting of more than three lighting fixtures, dial switches are used, which are installed in one row.

To control lighting from several places, purchase a special pass-through switch with backlight.

How to choose an LED switch

When buying an LED switch, there is no need to chase expensive ceramic devices, since the power consumption of lighting devices is generally not very large.

For domestic use, it will be sufficient to use a high-quality plastic LED switch with a reliable contact group. The service life of such devices is about 40,000 switchings.

For hotel rooms, illuminated switches are used, which are controlled using a key card. They can be with or without a shutdown time delay

The choice is also made based on the design of the device, the type of inclusion - they produce keyboard and rotary, push-button, touch and cord.

Depending on the installation method, internal and external devices are distinguished. The case material can also be different - plastic, glass, copper, stainless steel are used, and slate, gold plated and even leather are used as decorative coatings.

But what you really need to pay attention to is security class (IP) — it indicates the possibility of using the equipment in certain conditions.

For example:

1. IP class from 20 indicates that the device is poorly protected from dust and moisture. Such equipment is used in residential premises.
2. IP class 45 and higher used for marking switches suitable for connection in rooms with high humidity - baths, baths, kitchens, toilets, etc.
3. Class with IP from 65 means that the switch can be used outdoors. Such electrical equipment has increased protection from dust and moisture. Installed outside the building - under the porch, canopy, on covered verandas.It has more massive keys, and at the point where the electrical wire enters there is a rubber seal.

The higher the class, the more protected the device is from external factors. This applies not only to switches, but also to sockets, toggle switches, and other electrical equipment.

How to carry out installation correctly

The illuminated switch mechanism involves a small lamp that glows when the switch is turned off. A small neon lamp or LED along with a resistance element can be used to illuminate the device. The backlight has wires that need to be connected to power during installation.

Preparing for installation and mandatory safety precautions

Without basic knowledge of safety precautions, it is better not to start working with electrical equipment at all. Illiterate electrical installation can lead to electric shock, failure of electrical appliances, and fire.

Basic rules of conduct when working with electricity:

• all work must be carried out in a de-energized network;
• it is unacceptable to overload the power grid;
• check wire markings for compliance with the connected network;
• It is better to replace a damaged section of the network rather than repair it;
• Do not touch connected equipment with wet hands.

A regular indicator screwdriver or multimeter will help determine the nature of the conductors - where is the zero and where is the phase. The indicator is sufficient if the electrical network is single-phase. To analyze a three-phase network, use a multimeter.

Bringing one of the multimeter tentacles to the phase, the other is fixed on any of the conductors. The range for alternating current is set to 220 W. Zero upon contact will show a value of about 220 W, grounding is always lower

Installation example of a 2-gang switch with backlight

The main design differences between LED switches are in the backlight mechanism. It can be ready to use and does not require any action to connect it. Another type of design requires connecting wires that power an LED or neon lamp.

Let's consider a more complex option - how to connect a backlit device, in which the conductors need to be connected independently.

A design feature that allows easy access to the backlight wires can be useful if you need to turn it off

First of all, pry up the keys with a screwdriver or other suitable tool and remove them. Separate the core (internal mechanism) from the body.

Next, determine the correct position of the switch using an indicator. To do this, by touching the contacts with a screwdriver on one side and an indicator on the other, check whether the device is on or off.

If the indicator lights up, it means it is turned on. In this state, turn it so that the keys with the pressed side are located on top.

For a regular indicator screwdriver to work, you need to hold it correctly - the metal part must touch the contact plate, and the top must be touched with your thumb

One of the wires coming from the indicator is connected to the input terminal, and the second is connected to the key contact. If there are several keys, then the wire is connected to the first of them, starting from the left. Simultaneously with the wire going from the indicator to the input terminal, the phase conductor is also connected.

The two outlet phase wires that go to the chandelier are connected to the output terminals simultaneously with the second backlight wire, making sure that it does not fall out of contact.

With this connection method, the backlight will turn on after opening the contacts using the first key. The second will not have any effect on turning off the backlight, and the light will remain on even when the lighting is on.

In order for the indicator light to go out when you press any of the keys, you need to make a jumper yourself that will connect the indicator to both keys.

If you do not take into account the connection of the backlight, installation proceeds as in a conventional device. Through junction box A phase conductor is led to the switch and connected to the input terminal L, inserting it into the hole and screwing it in with a screw.

Next, two outlet phase wires are connected to the device contacts L1 and L2, which also lead to the chandelier through the junction box. One of them is connected to one lamp, the other to the other two. The zero passes through the junction box in the wiring box, then goes to all the chandelier lamps, closing the contact.

As a result of correct connection, the first key will turn on one lamp, the second two, and two turned on keys will lead to the activation of the entire lighting device. When switched off, the LED (+) should light up.

Why do energy-saving lamps blink?

LED switch is incompatible with operation energy saving lamps. A device conflict manifests itself in a short-term flashing of the lamp when it is off or in the so-called smoldering mode, when the lamp does not turn off completely, but barely glows.

The service life of an LED or energy-saving lamp in the wrong mode is significantly reduced and ranges from one to two months

This happens because inside the fluorescent lamp there is an electronic converter (capacitor), which, gradually recharging from the current passing through the backlight lamp, flares up.

A similar phenomenon occurs with LED strip power supplies, which also have a capacitor and are powered by a small current coming from the backlit switch.

Manufacturers of energy-saving lamps indicate that the use of their products is not compatible with the use of LED switches and dimmers.

You can get around this limitation by controlling the operation of the lighting device using a relay. From the switch, the command first goes to the relay, which directly controls the lighting.

The relay is produced by many manufacturers of electrical goods: Schneider Electric, ABB, Siemens. You can place it under the chandelier cap, behind the cornice in which the LED strip is installed.

You can use another solution to the problem - disconnect the neon lamp or LED from the power supply. This can be done by disconnecting the backlight wires from the terminals. But then the LED switch will lose its advantages.

Let's consider solutions that still allow you to combine lighting and the use of energy-saving lamps.

How to combine lamps and switch

If, after turning off, the fluorescent lamp flickers or glows dimly, the problem can be eliminated by connecting additional resistance (resistor or capacitor) in parallel with the lighting point.

To do this, you will need a resistor with a nominal value of 50 kOhm and a power of 2 W.It will absorb excess current when the backlight is on and will prevent the lamp capacitor from charging.

Place the resistor in a junction box in the lampshade or chandelier socket, having previously connected it to two wires and insulated the bare areas. For insulation, you can use heat shrink tubing (+)

This method of eliminating the cause of blinking energy-saving lamps is considered quite dangerous and experienced electricians do not recommend using it without sufficient skills in carrying out electrical work.

It is better to use a ready-made protection unit for fluorescent and LED lamps, which eliminates flickering, protects against power surges, and eliminates interference from lamps. Its connection is mandatory if an illuminated switch is used.

The maximum lamp power when using the GRANITE BZ-300-L block is 300 W. Protection is triggered at a network voltage of 275-300 W

The protective block is connected in parallel with lamps that do not work correctly - they flicker or glow faintly when turned off. Install it in the body of the lamp or in the glass of the chandelier.

When using lighting fixtures with two or more lighting groups, a separate block is installed for each group (+)

Solutions to popular problems and malfunctions of LED lamps are described in detail in these articles:

1. Why LED lamps burn when the switch is off: reasons and solutions
2. Why LED lights blink: troubleshooting + how to fix
3. Do-it-yourself LED lamp repair: causes of breakdowns, when and how you can repair it yourself

DIY illuminated switch

During the operation of electrical equipment, it sometimes turns out that in some of the rooms it would be nice to have a backlit switch. To do this, you don’t have to buy a device - you can improve your old one yourself.

What you will need for this:

• regular switch;
• LED with any characteristics;
• 470 kOhm resistor;
• diode 0.25 W;
• the wire;
• soldering iron;
• drill.

Using a soldering iron, they begin to assemble the circuit. The cathode of the diode (marked with a black stripe) is connected to the anode of the LED (the anode has a longer leg). The resistor is soldered to the positive terminal of the LED and to the wire that will serve as the connection to the switch. The second wire is connected to the cathode of the LED.

If you do not have a resistor of suitable power at hand or there is not enough space to place it, then you can replace it with two resistors of lower power by connecting them in series (+)

Next, connect everything to the on-off mechanism. The phase conductor that leads to the lamp is connected to the terminal along with one of the wires leading to the LED. Another wire is connected to the input terminal along with the phase wire, which supplies current from the mains.

It is necessary to carefully insulate the exposed sections of the wire and prevent the conductors from touching the housing; this is especially important to do if it is metal.

Check the connection diagram of the backlit switch for functionality as follows: the key, closing the contact, causes the chandelier or lamp to light up; when it is off, the LED lamp lights up. If the circuit works correctly, you can install the device in the housing.

To make the lighting visible, place the LED lamp into a drilled hole at the top of the housing.This is not necessary if the body is light - the light will break through it.

The switch can be illuminated using a neon lamp. The circuit uses a HG1 gas-discharge lamp and any type of resistance with a nominal value of 0.5-1.0 MOhm with a power of more than 0.25 W (+)

Switch with on indicator

Switches with indicators differ from LED switches in a completely different principle of use - the lamp in them lights up when the lighting is turned on. The main purpose of a pilot light is to signal that lights are on in a basement, attic, storage room or outdoors.

Used to control energy consumption. The indicator can be set for each of the keys or only for one of them.

The connection and operation diagram of a switch with a backlight function is built according to the following principle. The test lamp is connected in parallel to the switch terminals. When the circuit is completed, current flows through the indicator and the light fixture - both light up. If the switch is off, no current flows to either the indicator or the lamp.

Indication of switched-on lighting can be done in combination: 1 indicator lamp per key or one lamp for each key (+)

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Instructions for connecting the LED switch:

How to install the backlight yourself:

What to do if energy-saving lamps glow or flash after being turned off:

An illuminated switch can be used in almost all electrical lighting designs. But for its correct installation, it is necessary to study the design, operating principle and nuances that arise when interacting with other electrical equipment.

Share with readers your experience of connecting an LED switch. Please leave comments, ask questions about the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.