How to organize a summer water supply system at your dacha: laying and arranging a water supply system for irrigation
Avid summer residents and supporters of summer country life are well aware of the problems associated with the lack of water supply. But water is constantly needed by plants for watering, animals, and owners for hygienic and culinary purposes. How you want to just open the tap and get it in the required volume, even in country conditions. Do you agree?
We are ready to share with you all the possible ways to install summer water supply at the dacha. Here you will find reliable information about the selection of equipment and construction of popular types of autonomous systems.
We offer a thorough analysis of methods, valuable recommendations on choosing a source, laying above-ground and underground pipelines. The basis for the information presented is regulatory documentation and advice from experienced specialists. The information is supported by a selection of photos and videos.
The content of the article:
Distinctive features of summer water supply
In practice, a dacha irrigation system turns out to be a vague and uncertain concept.For some, this is a couple of galvanized buckets and several hours a day spent on difficult “walks” to the well and back, for others - a long flexible hose that constantly clings and bends, for others - a complex pipe system leading from a well or pond to all corners of the garden plot.
We will consider the most optimal options that eliminate heavy physical exertion during watering and reduce financial costs during their construction to a minimum.
Of course, a seasonal water supply system can have additional functions, for example, supplying water to a garage to wash a car, or providing an outdoor shower. However, they are only possible when a competent project has been drawn up and there are no complaints about the installation of a summer water supply system, otherwise, instead of convenient functionality, you will get many reasons for repairs.
Do not forget that the summer modification differs from the winter version in some aspects of installation and maintenance:
- for laying pipes, deep trenches are not needed, but grooves up to 0.7-0.8 m deep are sufficient;
- during the warm period there is no need to insulate the pipeline;
- for permanent systems, you need to consider a drainage system (for collapsible communications, drainage occurs spontaneously during dismantling);
- temporary collapsible pipelines are connected in series, more serious, stationary pipelines are connected using a manifold.
The difference also concerns the choice of pumping equipment. For example, to supply water to a garden from a well throughout the summer, a submersible or surface pump is sufficient. A permanent system operating year-round requires a powerful pumping station equipped with a water heater and storage tank.
The choice of irrigation system largely depends on the duration of the warm period.Suppose, for the harsh north, where summer lasts 3 or even 2 months, a collapsible scheme is quite enough.
And for the southern regions, where planting begins in early spring, it is better to build a good, strong, reliable stationary water supply system.
Selecting a water source
The productivity, length of the structure and other operational capabilities of the irrigation system largely depend on the water source to which it will be connected.
Here is a list of possible options for watering:
- well or well (relevant both for new, recently developed sites, and for old, long-term properties);
- a natural body of water (for example, a pond originally located on the territory of a garden plot);
- centralized pipeline (necessary for water supply of modern cottage villages).
An excellent addition to forming a reserve would be a storage tank for rain water, the filling of which depends on the vagaries of the weather, and a VOC storage well, in which purified wastewater separated from insoluble sludge is accumulated.
Most often, in addition to the main source, there is a backup, for example, a large plastic tank located at a height of 1-1.5 m. If the power is suddenly turned off and the pump operation stops, watering is carried out from the tank.
A simple, although costly solution in terms of payment, is to connect to the central highway. The pipe leading to the irrigation site is cut into the main pipe using a tee and a ball valve without shutting off, under pressure, since the preliminary installation of the valve allows you to drill a hole through it.
Irrigation from a natural source requires the installation of an additional filter system, because most budget pumps only work with clean water. A filter is also necessary for equipment immersed in a well or sand well.
Cleaner water is found in an artesian well, but it requires a special deep submersible pump (popular brands are Gilex, Grundfos, Patriot, Belamos, Caliber).
Storage containers come in different types: metal and plastic, large and small, purchased and homemade. If the area is small and the reservoir is large, there is enough liquid for several waterings.
A pipeline operating in the summer can be connected to any of the listed sources, but with minor reservations. Let's assume that a collapsible design is suitable for working with a plastic container, but for connecting to a well it is better to build a permanent system.
Types of water pipes for irrigation
Before drawing up a project for a summer water supply for irrigation, you should find out which scheme is more suitable: collapsible or stationary. The two indicated systems have the same purpose, but differ in the nuances of installation/dismantling (collapsible) and design features.
Collapsible diagram: pros and cons
The main distinguishing feature of a collapsible structure is the need for annual installation and dismantling. In the spring, the parts must be assembled, in the fall - disassembled, then all pipes, tubes, hoses and fittings must be cleaned, washed, dried and placed in a dry room.
A temporary collapsible water supply system is assembled and disassembled according to the principle of a children's construction set: it is necessary to take parts that are suitable in size and connect them into a structure that ensures the movement of water from the source to the watering site.
Ease of installation and low cost made the system popular: many ready-made offers from various manufacturers appeared in supermarkets.
Elements of the irrigation system are most often sold separately, but the sales consultant can select the necessary parts from the finished project - from pipes and fittings to the pump. There are also full-fledged kits designed for drip irrigation, a technology that is quite new, but already has regular fans.
Drip irrigation occurs thanks to the controlled supply of water through flexible hoses with small holes located near the root system of plants. The advantage is the dosed supply and saving of water, in which the plants receive the required amount of moisture.
The advantages of any collapsible type are:
- quick installation and dismantling;
- assembly that does not require special knowledge;
- operational repairs;
- budget cost.
There is also a drawback - the need for assembly/disassembly. Many people do not like having hoses on the surface. They interfere with movement and spoil the appearance of the site, but if you think about a neat, camouflaged arrangement of flexible hoses (along paths, along the edges of lawns or beds), the problem will be solved.
The photo selection will familiarize you with the specifics of assembling an independent system from HDPE pipes:
Setting up a permanent system
To install a permanent summer water supply, trenches are dug, in this way it resembles communications that operate throughout the year.
Unlike the winter system, the summer modification pipes are not tied to the freezing level and therefore are located at a shallow depth - about half a meter, maximum 0.8 m. The depth depends on the installation location: the more “actively” the area of land above the pipes is used, the deeper they are are lying.
A mandatory part is a drain valve, which is necessary for the procedure for draining water at the end of the season. It is installed at a convenient point in a pipeline laid at an angle so that water can flow out on its own. The procedure is carried out before the onset of cold weather, without waiting for negative temperatures, otherwise the water will freeze right in the pipes and damage them.
In addition to the pipeline located underground, water taps located outside are required. They are installed at points located in close proximity to irrigation zones - in the vegetable garden, in the garden, near flower beds and lawns, as well as near the garage.
Flexible hoses with convenient sprinkler attachments are attached to the taps for more efficient irrigation or spraying of plants.
Pros of permanent water supply:
- communications do not interfere with the movement of people and transport;
- the pipes are protected by a layer of soil from damage caused by external influences;
- there is no need to install in the spring, and dismantle at the end of the season;
- Preparation for conservation is simple - draining the water from the pipes.
The disadvantages are the higher cost and additional excavation work. If depressurization occurs, it is impossible to quickly determine the emergency area.
Assembling a system from rigid polymer pipes has its own characteristics:
Brief overview of materials and necessary devices
The summer water supply system consists of the following elements:
- pipes;
- taps;
- fitting;
- pump equipment;
- filters.
For comparison, when constructing a winter shelter, pressure regulation devices are required (hydraulic accumulator, pressure gauge, pressure switch), automatic protection, water heater.
There are many options for automated systems that allow you to regulate and control drip or greenhouse irrigation.
For deepening into the ground, ordinary water pipes made of plastic, polypropylene or polyethylene with a diameter of 20 mm to 25 mm are more suitable. Polypropylene products with reinforced layers, for example, German Banninger pipes for hot water supply, which have a characteristic green color, are especially durable.
However, for small, few-branched circuits, medium-strength white PVC pipes are suitable.
It is better not to place hoses in the ground, but to use them on the surface. If you nevertheless decide to build a permanent water supply system exclusively from hoses, then choose products with thick walls, reinforced with nylon fibers. Their service life is usually at least 15 years.
The only energy-dependent element of the system is a surface or submersible pump. It should be selected based on data about the water source and the characteristics of the equipment itself. For example, the best option for a pond is a drainage pump, for a well - a deep one, and for a well, an inexpensive submersible model like "Baby" or "Stream".
Instructions for assembling a temporary water supply system
To install a seasonal “temporary structure” you will need a set of pipes and fittings of suitable diameter and a pump for forced water supply. To correctly calculate the amount of consumables, draw up a drawing in the form of a sketch, on which you need to indicate the length of all lines and connection points.
To set up drip irrigation, it is enough to purchase a ready-made kit equipped with instructions.
To assemble according to your own diagram, proceed according to the following plan:
- lay out the pipes according to the drawing, determine the locations of water points;
- if there are enough elements, connect them with fittings;
- attach additional parts (watering nozzles);
- connect the system to a pre-installed pump;
- test the operation of the water supply.
With the pump turned on, check the pressure at all points and the tightness of the communications. To prevent hoses and pipes from getting tangled under your feet, try to think through the layout so that they do not cross areas of active traffic and the road for vehicle traffic.
If you constantly use surface water supply, use various ideas to make it easier to install. For example, when building a garden path, lay transverse pipes with a diameter of 50-100 mm under its base in several places. For the winter they can be closed with plugs, and in the summer they will serve as a kind of tunnels for installing water pipes and hoses.
A in this material You can read more about choosing flexible hoses for irrigation.
Installation of a stationary system with a pump
The main part of the permanent irrigation water supply system is placed in the ground, so the selection of parts and installation must be carried out with special care. We offer a universal scheme for laying highways, suitable for simple and branched networks.
#1. Drawing up a project taking into account the features of the landscape
Planning, taking into account all the nuances of subsequent assembly, is half the success, so even before purchasing the necessary materials, draw up a diagram indicating important objects (water source, watering points, all buildings, paths, beds and plantings).
Using a tape measure, measure the required sections of the area and calculate the length of the pipes and the number of connecting parts.
Consider how best to position the trenches relative to paths, buildings, and watering areas. Count on a shallow depth of 0.3-0.4 m, but for potentially dangerous places it should be increased to 0.7-0.8 m.
Don’t forget about installing a drain valve - it is traditionally installed next to the water intake, so the pipes should also be tilted towards the source.
The more water points there are, the less often you will have to move the flexible hose. Mentally divide your garden (flower garden, lawn, garden) into small zones and plan to install hydrants with a device for attaching a hose or sprinkler.
An approximate list of materials and tools that will be required to assemble the irrigation system:
- pipes with a set of tees, elbows and fittings;
- flexible hoses;
- cutter and soldering iron for plastic pipes (metal hacksaw for metal ones);
- ball valve ½;
- pump for installation in a well.
The availability of various parts and their quantity depends on the requirements of a particular project.
#2. Excavation work - installation of trenches
To dig a shallow trench, the only tool you need is a shovel. Buckets or a wheelbarrow are not needed to remove soil, as it is needed for backfilling.
The labor intensity of the event depends entirely on the quality and composition of the soil and vegetation layer. Soil with a high content of sand, even with numerous plant roots, is easy to dig; removing soil containing clay components is much more difficult.
Along the route of laying communications, there may be buildings that will have to be walked around the perimeter (for example, a barn or a swimming pool). Small country houses can be overcome by slightly deepening the trench. Let's assume that communications laid under a flowerbed at a depth of 0.7 m will not interfere with digging and caring for plants.
It should be remembered that each turn of the pipeline will reduce the efficiency of the system and increase the load on the pumping equipment. Therefore, when developing a scheme for laying a pipeline system, it is necessary, if possible, to choose paths with a minimum number of turns, or better yet, with no turns at all.
#3. Pipeline Assembly Options
Previously, when metal pipes were used, you had to deal with steel parts, which were more labor-intensive to cut and assemble. Nowadays they use plastic pipes, which are connected to each other in two ways - welding or fittings.
The first technology is a little more complicated, but the result is more reliable. Before welding, it is necessary to prepare polypropylene pipes - cut into fragments of the required length. A pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm is suitable for the central main, and 10-20 mm for branches, so cutting can be done with scissors or a roller cutter.
For welding you will need a special welding machine - soldering iron with heating element and a compact control unit. As a result of heating, the pipes are soldered to the fittings, forming a monolithic sealed structure.
Before starting welding work, carefully read the instructions and remember the rules for using the welding machine. For example, pipes should not be cooled with cold water or compressed air.
Having assembled a structure from pipes, there is no need to backfill - first, connect to the pumping equipment and check the operation.
#4. Pump connection and testing
As a rule, at the time of construction of the irrigation system, the pump is already installed. If not, then you need to choose a model suitable for a specific source (for example, a well) and install it according to the instructions.
A submersible pump is lowered into the water and fixed at some distance from the bottom, a surface pump is installed next to the well, covering it with a protective casing.
The crucial moment is testing. After connecting all the elements into a single system, turn on the pump and check the tightness of the water supply. Pay attention to the quality of watering - is there enough pressure at the most remote points. If everything is satisfactory, you can backfill, lightly compact the soil, and start using the summer system.
Maintenance mainly concerns the operation of the pump. The pipeline only requires preparation for winter storage. To do this, you need to open the tap and drain the water.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
To understand what a summer irrigation system looks like and learn more about its installation, use useful and informative videos.
Option for arranging a country water supply with a connection to a well:
The next video will talk about how to build a plastic water pipe yourself:
Detailed overview of elements for the irrigation system:
As you can see, installing a summer water supply for irrigation is within the capabilities of any summer resident who knows how to operate a pump. If you have any questions or difficulties, we recommend contacting specialists involved in landscape design or equipping summer cottages with water supply systems.
Are you concerned about arranging your summer dacha water supply? Or maybe you’ve already installed it yourself and you have something to share with our readers? Please share your experience, write your comments, ask questions at the bottom of the article.
I never thought that in such a simple way you could create a convenient water supply in your own area. Of course, you will need to work, dig trenches, purchase all the necessary elements (pipes, taps, fittings). I think it's worth it. It is interesting that the water for plants should not be completely cold. Preferably settled. How to properly equip wells and the summer water supply itself so that the water has time to heat up?
The material presents a scheme for watering from a barrel/storage container. This is enough to keep the water from being icy, but more is not needed.
Hello! According to the recommendations of agricultural technicians, it is advisable to specially heat water for irrigation of agricultural crops in the following cases:
- water reaches the plants directly from underground source (your case);
— watering is carried out by sprinkling or drip irrigation;
— air temperature above +33 C.
There are basically two ways to heat well water:
1) Using intermediate containers (this option is described in the article).
2) Inserting a pipe for irrigation immediately after the water heater. When you open the tap, water from the well will mix with hot water. In this case, it is important to organize the pressure difference so that it is the hot that flows into the cold, and not vice versa.
And I did drip irrigation at my summer cottage. I had to tinker with installing an extensive network of flexible hoses throughout the entire territory and embedding it in the ground. But the whole summer there were no problems with watering. True, the wife managed to damage the hoses in several places with a hoe. Repaired the damage. In the fall, we also need to dismantle all this and put it away for storage. High-quality watering is worth all this trouble. I liked it.