How to build a Russian stove: do-it-yourself masonry, the best orders and diagrams

Construction of a stove in a private home is a responsible undertaking that requires special skills, which is recommended to be carried out under the guidance of an experienced stove builder.Only he knows how to build a Russian stove: choose the right masonry scheme, choose a brick, prepare a mortar.

Even small miscalculations in the order can result in disastrous results, so it is necessary to follow the work rules and regulatory requirements in construction.

Construction of a Russian stove

Russian stoves may differ in size, shape and design features. According to one definition, these are heating and cooking structures with 2 fireboxes, intended, in addition to heating functions, to also prepare typical dishes and bake bread.

The process of burning firewood in the main firebox occurs as follows: the gases generated during the combustion of logs enter the 1st section of the hearth chamber, then through special holes - undercuts - enter the 2nd section. After this, they move to the upper cooking chamber, from where to the collection channel and into the pipe.

Diagram of the Russian stove. The main firebox is necessary for winter heating, the small one is used for cooking at any time of the year

When burning wood in a small firebox, combustion gases first enter the main firebox, and from it into the chimney. Here you can use not only dry logs, but also bark, wood chips, branches and other waste.

The Russian stove has a lot of advantages, but has one noticeable drawback: heat is released at the level of the hearth, that is, approximately 0.9 m from the floor, which prevents heating of the lower part of the room

The basis for the structure is a foundation, usually 0.1 m larger than the dimensions of the lower part of the Russian stove. Here, below, there is a storage area - free space for storing a poker, grip, spatula and other equipment.

The main part is considered to be the crucible - a cooking chamber with a hole (mouth) on the front side. The mouth can be rectangular or arched. Through it, fuel (logs) is placed inside the crucible and dishes with food are placed

For laying the cooking chamber, and in particular for the vault, the most fire-resistant, selected bricks are selected. The thickness of the walls determines how long the heat will last.

The thin walls of the cooking chamber heat up very quickly, but cool down just as quickly. Standard thickness is 1 or ¾ brick. The front wall is thinner - ½ brick, like the partition in front of the furnace.

At the bottom of the cooking chamber there is a floor for which a strong, smooth brick is suitable. Often it is laid dry, without using a solution, on a backfill of coarse sand, to which crushed stone, gravel or broken glass is added. The floor is laid with a slope of 3-5 cm towards the mouth.

The shape of the vault affects the degree of heating and the complexity of the masonry.

For example, semi-circular vaults heat up slightly under and reflect gases unevenly, but are considered easier to construct with your own hands

Gentle vaults are more difficult to lay; steel ties must be used to distribute the load. However, with this design, the underfloor heats up more.

The technology for laying the roof of a Russian stove may differ, but the following rule is often followed: lay it out on both sides simultaneously and finish in the middle. A castle brick is laid in the center, and a clay solution is used to coat it.

The cooking chamber is arranged so that the fuel can be placed close to the mouth - in this case, combustion occurs more efficiently. Pots and baking trays are also placed on the underside near the mouth

If they are baking bread, then they clear the floor - they scoop out the ash, and sweep away its remains.

There is still a way to bake bread without baking sheets or molds, when it is placed on a special shovel, lightly sprinkled with flour, and then “put in the oven” - simply dumped with a sharp movement onto the floor.

Construction: preparation and laying

To protect yourself from all sorts of risks associated with fire, as well as from claims from the fire inspectorate, we recommend that when constructing a structure, you rely on the rules and regulations set out in the legal documentation:

• SNiP 41-01-2003 – section on heating;
• SNiP 23-02-2003 – on thermal protection;
• SNiP 3-01-01-85 – general construction standards.

Materials for the construction of the furnace must also comply with safety standards and fire regulations.

Choosing a location for masonry

Traditionally, the location of the stove is chosen so that the mouth faces the window and is well lit. The structure can be located either in the center of the room or against the wall, in the corner.

If the walls are wooden, they must be protected with non-combustible material - for example, steel sheets or asbestos boards. In this case, the brickwork should be placed no closer than 0.2 m.

The distance between the stove and the walls of the room is also necessary for an annual inspection, which must be carried out before the start of each heating season.

Sometimes the building is placed in a wall between two rooms. To protect a wall or partition, you can use brickwork with a thickness of about 0.2 m or cladding with non-combustible material.

The central location of the Russian stove allows you to increase the heating area: the heated structure can heat two adjacent rooms at once, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom

You can also use this option, when a large firebox goes into the kitchen, a small one into the next room. It was previously practiced in five-wall houses with a “summer” hut, in which the firebox of a large stove with a stove bench was not used during the warm season.

Preparation of tools and materials

Equipment and tools for masonry are prepared in advance so as not to be distracted and not rush to look for them at the most inopportune moment.

The main tool of a stove maker:

A plumb line and a construction cord can also be useful - for precise adjustment of the corners and walls of the structure vertically, a rule - for leveling the foundation, a folding steel meter - for marking and leveling. For safety reasons, we recommend wearing protective clothing, comfortable shoes and gloves before working.

The materials and their quantity depend on the selected stove model - with a heating panel, a stove bench or a hob.

A table of required materials might look like this:

Particular attention should be paid to furnace appliances made of metal (steel or cast iron): doors, grates, views, valves, dampers, cast iron plates

The advantage of cast iron over steel is obvious: it does not rust, does not burn out, practically does not deform under the influence of high temperatures, and retains heat for a long time.

When buying doors and latches, make sure that the first ones close smoothly and tightly, and the second ones slide easily in the canvas. Previously, the dimensions of devices were subject to standards, for example, cleaning doors had dimensions of 112 * 150 mm. Today you can find equipment of various shapes, lengths and widths.

How to prepare the solution?

Based on the main material, mortars are divided into clay, cement, and lime.

Clay ones are considered traditional and most suitable for constructing such parts of the furnace as the furnace.Modern compositions are usually of the mixed (complex) type and, in addition to the binder component, include fillers

When designating, the binder component comes first, the filler comes second, for example, 1:1 or 1:2. Complex solutions are indicated by three parts, for example, 1: 2: 6, with two binder components in the first place, the last one is the filler. The brand of cement mortar depends on the brand of cement used.

The finished solution must have the following qualities:

• plasticity, convenient for application and distribution;
• sufficient thickness to prevent spreading;
• normal density, not skinny and not fat.

The general rules apply here: solutions that are too thin are considered weak and short-lived, while greasy solutions crack after drying.

Experienced craftsmen have their own secrets for preparing stove solutions, many of them adhere to traditions and use the familiar, centuries-proven composition of clay and sand

The most difficult thing in preparing clay mortar is finding the right type of clay. It must be greasy so that the composition is elastic, convenient for laying and creating neat, even seams. Finding the right proportions sometimes takes years - this is another reason to work under the guidance of an experienced craftsman.

Beginners select the composition of the solution experimentally. First, the clay is cleaned of foreign matter before mixing, then soaked in water for 24 hours.

Equal portions of clay are mixed with different portions of sand, cakes are formed and allowed to dry for 2-3 days. In the future, to prepare the solution, use the proportions that give the least cracks.

To give the clay mass a suitable texture and uniformity, it is soaked and then rubbed through a mesh with a 5 mm mesh.

When constructing a firebox, instead of sand, it is necessary to add fireclay powder 1:3 or 1:4 to the fireclay. You can use a masonry compound prepared in a factory.

For laying chimneys and smoke circuits within the house, a lime-cement or lime-sand mixture is used. In the construction of pipes above the roof, cement mortar or lime-cement composition is used.

Basic principles of order masonry

To construct a Russian stove, it is recommended to use solid refractory bricks without cracks or chips. The thickness of the gaps between adjacent rows filled with mortar is from 0.5 to 0.8 cm.

Various sections of the oven can be made by laying a whole brick, placed on an edge or laid flat, as well as ½ (equal to the width) or ¼ (equal to the edge) of a brick.

Bandaging the corners most often looks like an alternate interweaving of two sides - the “spoon” (long rib) and the “poke” (short rib)

We suggest using diagrams and descriptions to get acquainted with the serial laying of a Russian stove. The dimensions of the proposed option are 1.45 * 1.28 m (that is, 6 bricks in length and 5 in width).

Cross-sectional diagram of a Russian stove in two main positions. The laying is done in 32 rows, the first is at floor level, the last is in front of the chimney

The foundation is laid in the ground, on which the structure of the structure depends. At a depth of 12 cm from the floor, lay two-layer waterproofing (for example, 2 pieces of roofing felt).

Sectional diagrams of brickwork. Two rows of bricks are laid flat to the floor level - this is the top floor of the foundation

The first layer of the furnace also consists of bricks laid flat.

1-4 rows laid out according to the diagrams below, while in the 4th row you will need to secure steel strips and blower doors (3 pieces).

5 row differs in the installation of a grate, which is necessary to remove ash from the cooking furnace into the ash opening. The floor should be laid only from refractory bricks.

Pattern of row 5 and pattern of rows 6-11:

Rows 6-11 laid out according to the same scheme with some differences:

Row 6 – installation of the main firebox door,

Row 10 – installation of a blower door for a small firebox,

Row 11 – grate for removing ash from the small firebox.

Rows 12-17 – additional installation work:

Row 12 – small firebox door,

Row 13 – 2-burner cooking stove made of cast iron (0.71*0.41 m), material – refractory brick and steel strips for reinforcement. After this, the arched openings of the internal and then external cooking chambers are laid out,

Row 15 – refractory bricks are placed on edge, a door for the cooking chamber is installed (0.45 * 0.45 with a latch), the remaining bricks are laid flat, alternating with steel strips.

The 17th row is laid out from bricks laid flat, then 5 rows are a pipe, while a sheet of asbestos is laid between the last row and the ceiling.

Row diagrams from 12 to 17 (3-3), from 17 to 22 (4-4), from 22 to 27 (5-5):

Above the main structure of the furnace there is a pipe laid with 5 bricks (flat position). For strength, it is connected in a dressing. Thus, 32 rows are obtained.

Stove with hot water boiler and stove bench

In addition to the simplest option with two fireboxes, they build complex Russian stoves with their own hands with a stove bench, a boiler for heating water, with a firebox or a fireplace. Let's consider the order of popular solutions that can be used for self-construction.

The ordering greatly simplifies the laying, since the graphic representation and description of each row shows exactly how the previous row differs from the next, and what elements are needed at all stages.

Consider the schemes for construction Russian stove with boiler, created in a computer program.

1 row determines the location of the entire structure; it is made of solid refractory bricks laid flat.

Before laying, it is necessary to make markings, build a foundation, and lay a layer of waterproofing. It is better to first lay out all the elements on a dry surface to determine the dimensions of the oven

2nd row – start of construction of compartments.

First, the bricks that make up the walls of the furnace are laid out, then a series of internal partitions are laid out. Bricks should be laid strictly according to the drawing, measuring each row with a level

3rd row – design of two chambers, a cleaning chamber and a blower chamber.

Cast iron doors are installed opposite the chambers. For fixation, a wire is used, which is inserted into the ears of the products at one end, and placed into the seams between the bricks with the other.

4 row – closing the hearth.

One chamber inside the structure - underneath - is closed with bricks laid flat. In the same way, the internal channels at the walls are blocked

5 row - grate.

The large firebox is equipped with a grate; at the same stage, another door is installed - for the small firebox. Internal masonry is carried out with fireclay bricks without the use of mortar

6 row – water heating tank.

A rectangular tank made of galvanized steel and intended for heating water is installed on the side, but so that the approach to it is open

7 row – reinforcement of the side wall.

The wall is screeded with a steel strip.At the same time, install the door for the main firebox and the grate for the small one. Gaps on the internal masonry increase heat transfer

8th and 9th row – removal of channels.

The laying of internal channels is carried out strictly according to the scheme and level. Another door is also installed here - this time for a small firebox

10 row – combining the arches of the main and small fireboxes.

Here the bottom of the crucible is laid out completely. The water heating tank is completely closed. Only the openings for the passage of heated air to the cooking chamber are left open.

11 row – installation of a hob.

The best place for installation is on the edge of the front wall, above the doors to both combustion chambers. A steel angle of 50*50 mm is suitable for fixing the plate. At the rear there is a grate

12-13 row – design of the walls of the hob.

At this stage, the construction of the chimney begins. A metal damper should be installed between the chimney and the furnace, closing the opening if necessary

14 row - entrance to the pipe.

The design of the smoke exhaust channel begins. The hole in it opens using a flap installed vertically. The walls of the crucible continue to rise

15 row – roof of the cooking chamber

The direction of the masonry changes - it narrows to form and cover the cooking chamber. The outline of a chimney appears

16 row – strengthening of the walls.

The masonry is made according to the 15th row principle, but for the reliability of the structure, steel plates with locking elements at the ends are placed in the seams

17 row – installation of metal parts.

The back wall is screeded with a metal strip, the roof of the cooking chamber is further narrowed, steel supports are installed above the cooking plate for subsequent masonry - a corner and a strip

18 row - vault of the furnace.

To create an arched vault structure, either a template or a metal frame is used. The bricks are laid out on a long edge called a spoon. The hob is closed

Row 19 – strengthening of the internal partition.

For reinforcement, as usual, a steel strip is used. Walls are laid around the perimeter of the vault, which will serve as sides for further backfilling.

20 row - backfilling with sand.

The space above the furnace is completely filled with clean sifted sand, which must be carefully insulated. The filling increases the heat capacity of the bread baking chamber

21 row - the base of the bed.

In the rear part, compacted sand and the walls adjacent to the arch are completely covered with masonry - this is the base of the future bed; in front the over-pipe is narrowed

22 row – installation of a metal part in the chimney.

To increase heating time, contain heat and be able to redirect gases, a metal element with a hole is installed in the chimney

23 row - chimney door.

To clean the chimney, you need a special hole, closed with a door that is fixed with a wire. Removal of the overtube continues

24 row – installation of the damper.

The damper is necessary to regulate the draft both in the furnace and in the fireboxes. First, install the canvas along which it moves, and then the valve itself

25-26 row - narrowing of the masonry.

The two rows are laid out almost identically, the main goal is to cover the space above the installed valve and form the upper part of the oven

27-29 row – connection of the overpipe and the chimney.

The laying of the main parts is completed, the construction of the pipe continues - up to the cutting level. The part of the chimney passing through the ceiling is reinforced not with clay, but with cement mortar

The chimney is led through the attic to the roof, where an otter is installed and the adjacent area is waterproofed so that there are no gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

The main thing during construction is to follow the order of the Russian stove and monitor the quality of the materials used.

Recommendations for use by stove makers

The efficiency of fuel combustion and the overall condition of the stove depend on compliance with operating rules, which should be followed not from time to time, but regularly.

Brick, like mortar, is a “living” material that can become deformed over time due to temperature changes. Therefore, you will have to not only clean it, but also cover up the cracks so that condensation does not form and the heat capacity of the structure does not drop.

This happens very simply, here is an example: over time, a gap of only 2 mm wide has formed around the valve. It turns out that in an hour it passes as much as 15 m³ of air heated to a temperature of 90-100 ° C, that is, approximately 10% of the total heat emanating from the stove.

Heat loss increases up to 40% if you simply open the door, and by 20-25% if air is supplied through the vent

Furnace repairs and cleaning are carried out once a year, before the heating season. But chimneys need cleaning much more often - about 2-3 times per season. Before starting the fire, remove ash from the grate to ensure free access of air for efficient combustion.

Fuel is prepared in advance, since the logs must dry. To do this, they are put in woodpiles under a canopy and left for at least a year. It is not recommended to use wet firewood, since evaporating moisture settles on the walls and mixes with soot.

It is better if the firewood is the same length and thickness no more than 10 cm.This way they will burn out equally quickly and evenly, which is important for heating bricks

Typically the combustion process takes from 1.5 to 2 hours.

Firewood is stacked in the combustion chamber in rows or in a cage, with a small distance between logs. It is important that they burn at the same time, as the heat will be greater.

It is not recommended to heat the stove for a long time for increased heating. This can provoke the appearance of cracks, as a result of which first cosmetic and then major repairs will be required - laying the masonry again.

For kindling, quickly flammable materials are usually used: wood chips, paper, shavings. Before kindling, open all the dampers, the view, the door

As soon as the wood ignites, the firebox is closed and the vent is opened. The draft is regulated by the position of the valve or view.

Some more useful tips:

• A bright red flame and black smoke indicate a lack of air - the flow needs to be increased.
• A white flame and a hum in the chimney is an excess of air; it is better to cover the vent a little.
• You can move the logs only after they have thoroughly burned out and formed wastelands that allow air to pass through.
• The firebrands are pushed into the center of the hot coals so that they burn out faster.
• As soon as the coals stop burning with a blue flame, they are distributed over the hearth, moving closer to the mouth.
• To protect against carbon smoke, the pipe is not closed for another 10 minutes to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the room.

If the stove is heated with coal, it is still recommended to heat it with wood.

When finishing external walls, remember that beautiful cladding can partially reduce the flow of heat into the room.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video layout of a Russian stove with order:

The process of dismantling the old and building a new furnace:

One of the options for a Russian stove with the order:

If you build a Russian stove correctly, you can immediately get an almost “eternal” heating device and excellent kitchen equipment for cooking. However, for this, the device must fully comply with the order, and the technology for laying bricks and mixing mortar must comply with generally accepted standards.

And before making a Russian stove project, it is better to consult with qualified stove makers.

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