DIY bunk bed made of wood: assembly instructions + best photo ideas

Do sleeping areas for children and adults take up too much space? Are the models presented in stores too monotonous, expensive, or of dubious quality? The best solution to such problems is a do-it-yourself bunk bed made of wood or MDF. It will withstand active play by children and attacks by pets, make your interior individual and stylish, and will cost much less.

In this article we will give step-by-step instructions on how to make and assemble a bunk bed for children or adults yourself, and describe common and original solutions. For inspiration, you will find photos of the best models, and for clarity, diagrams and videos.

When is a bunk bed indispensable?

Until recently, it was believed that bunk beds were only appropriate in children's rooms and in families with 2 or more children. A two-story lodge for adults was associated primarily with a dormitory or a cheap hostel.

With the growing popularity of studio apartments and small-sized smart housing, this piece of furniture has received a new life. A modern bunk bed can become a place for the whole family to sleep, and also combine the functions of a bed, sofa, children's sports and entertainment complex, cabinet and even an office. From 1 to 4 beds, from compact children's models to King Size beds.

To create a stylish and functional piece of furniture, you don’t have to spend a lot of money. A little patience and accuracy - and an amazing result is guaranteed

If you decide to use MDF sheets as the material, then it is better to order the sheets to be cut and the ends finished in a workshop, and only do the assembly yourself.

In each of the store models, some solutions are strikingly beautiful and practical, while others would like to be corrected. Don’t look for compromises - embody all the best ideas, in your opinion, in a bed of your own making!

Preparation and planning of work

So that there are no annoying surprises and inconveniences during the work, and the result does not become a disappointment, the first thing you need to think through is everything. Don't pick up a tool until you know exactly what the finished product will look like and how to complete each step from material preparation to assembly and decoration.

Which material to choose?

Popular wood materials include boards and timber, MDF, chipboard, plywood, solid wood and furniture panels.

Use slab - a solid cut of a tree with bark - and peeled branches for an eco-style interior. Thoroughly polish and varnish all rough edges and corners

Each of these materials can be used in the manufacture of a wooden bunk bed.

In popular models they are used for the following purposes:

1. Board and timber - the most common solution; many models of bunk beds are made entirely of them. If you choose the right thickness, it can withstand high loads in both children's and adult beds. Buy well-dried, planed or at least edged, bark-free, selected grade lumber, free from knots and other defects.
2. MDF – it looks more modern than boards, costs not much more, and you can easily cut any original shape from it. It is better to order a cut in a specialized workshop so that the edges can be processed. For load-bearing parts (stands, drawers) it is used only in children's beds due to its lower strength.
3. laminated chipboard - inexpensive, but not strong enough slabs. Used for decorative cladding of timber frames. To prevent harmful formaldehyde fumes, all edges must be sealed.
4. Plywood 4, 8 or 12 mm – can be used as a base for a mattress (we’ll tell you in more detail later), lining a bed of 2 tiers from the bottom, the bottom of drawers.
5. Solid wood, slabs or furniture panels - an excellent solution for the headboard, footboard, and visible part of the drawer, if you have experience working with them. They allow you to make carvings or ornaments, are absolutely environmentally friendly and look solid, but are difficult to process and are quite expensive.

Double-decker beds for adults are often made on a metal frame, but this is a topic for a separate article. MDF and laminated chipboard are not strong enough, and solid or laminated timber for load-bearing structures must have a large cross-section.

The metal frame allows you to create transparent but very durable structures of an original shape. The main disadvantages are heavy weight and cold when accidentally touched at night.

The choice of material is strongly related to the desired model. From timber and boards you can assemble a strong but “transparent” structure that will not visually clutter up the space, and from MDF you can create a wall or “room within a room”.

Choosing fasteners and finishing

Having decided on the model and the main material, you should create a drawing or get a ready-made one on the Internet.It is necessary to calculate the necessary purchases and simplify your work.

Draw not only a general plan with the main dimensions, but also separately the headboard, footboard, bed and stairs. This way you can display all the parts and visualize the assembly order.

If you are good with a computer, it is more convenient to develop a drawing in a special program: it will not make mistakes, will automatically generate drawings of individual parts and count materials

In addition to the main material - beams, boards, MDF, plywood, you will need fastenings and finishing elements.

The most reliable combination is wood glue and self-tapping screws. For a secret, invisible connection, dowels are used, the frame of the bed can be assembled on metal corners, and for a simple and reliable connection of the load-bearing parts, bolts are used. You can choose any type of fastener or combine all of them in different parts.

For MDF and chipboard, small round dowels are used, because it is almost impossible to accurately knock out a hole in them for oval fasteners

In order for the bed to have a finished look, like a store-bought one, and not a homemade one, you need processing of the ends, masking of screws and a finishing coating.

All visible screws are screwed in “under the countersunk”, slightly recessing the head into the wood. To do this, pre-drill a shallow hole along the diameter of the cap. Once assembled, this recess can be masked in various ways. For MDF and laminated chipboard, special plastic plugs are used to match the lamination.

You can also use plugs on wood - wooden “tablets”, special putty, wood putty or a mixture of wood glue and sawdust. In any case, such fasteners will be absolutely invisible only under opaque paint.

MDF and laminated chipboard already have a finishing coating, but they need to have the ends treated with a special tape or film. Natural wood must be finally sanded and covered with stain, varnish or paint.

Preparation of working tools

A home craftsman will probably have everything you need; you can easily do without professional specialized equipment.

If you don’t have the necessary tool and you don’t know how to use it, you might want to give up the idea of ​​making a bed yourself

You can order parts to be cut according to your drawings in a workshop with professional machines. Then all you have to do is assemble it using a screwdriver, mallet and glue.

To do everything yourself, depending on the chosen material and model, you may need:

1. Jigsaw, grinder, saw - hacksaw for preparing parts.
2. Drill, screwdriver, preferably cordless.
3. Clamps for fixing glued elements or convenient assembly using screws and bolts.
4. Planer, sander, emery, router to round the edges of boards, remove fibers, sand finished furniture before painting
5. Hammer, chisel, mallet - in addition to driving nails, you will need it when working with dowels.
6. Tape measure, pencil, level for marking.
7. Brush and roller for varnish or paint.
8. Iron - for gluing the ends of MDF or laminated chipboard.

We have specifically indicated the purpose of each tool so that you can choose a replacement for what is missing. For example, without a router it is quite possible to get by with a hand tool, a plane.

Instructions for making a classic model

It is easier to understand the basic principles of manufacturing and assembly using a classic model made of timber and boards - we will consider it.By adding and adjusting individual elements, decorative overlays, and complementing it with the desired accessories, you can create your own unique and stylish design.

Calculations and purchase of materials

In order not to go to the warehouse for 1 - 2 missing bars and boards, it is worth drawing the future bed to scale in advance and counting the necessary materials.

Some elements - for example, decorative overlays, railings and stair steps - depend significantly on the model, others - drawers and slats - remain unchanged

If the wooden frame is covered with MDF or laminated chipboard, then boards for the headboard and footboard slats, fencing and railings will not be needed.

For the model shown above you need:

• timber 38x76x1730 mm – 8 pieces, for vertical posts and decorative overlays;
• timber 38x38x1850 mm – 4 pieces, for longitudinal strips;
• boards 38x140 - 4 pieces of 2030 mm each (side drawers) and 4 pieces of 914 mm each (end drawers);
• boards 20x90 mm - 4 pieces, 914 mm each; central headboard and footboard strips; 1 piece 1510 mm stair railings, 2 pieces 1800 mm each and 4 pieces 2030 mm each for railings;
• boards 20x140x914 mm - 4 pcs, upper headboard and footboard strips;
• boards 20x64x482 mm – 3 pcs, stair steps;
• boards 20x76x1000 mm - 24 pieces, on transverse slats.

Cuttings of timber and boards, and even shavings left over from processing and sawing, will also come in handy. Take dowels, screws, emery and other small items in abundance. Don't forget about a new sharp file or wood disc for your jigsaw or grinder.

Step 1 - cutting and preparing parts

When all materials have been purchased, they need to be cut into pieces of the required length using a grinder or an electric jigsaw. It is not advisable to use a handsaw, as it will leave an uneven, sloppy edge.

In this model, only the upper slats of the headboard and footboard need to be shaped. Before cutting the corners, apply markings so that all 4 boards are the same.

If the lumber was edged, all prepared parts must be planed. Corners and long edges of boards must be rounded using a router or hand plane, and the finished parts must be sanded.

Step 2 - assembling the side part of the drawer

The fastening of the timber to the frame should be as reliable as possible: it is the first to take the load from those sitting, lying and jumping on the bed

Glue a beam - a longitudinal strip on which the lamellas will lie - onto the board along the bottom edge from the inside. Apply wood glue to both parts, press, secure with clamps until completely dry. Then additionally secure with self-tapping screws 6 cm long, screwing them in from the side of the beam.

Glue or nail spacer blocks from pieces of timber or boards 8 cm long on top of the longitudinal planks. There are 13 pieces in total, with indentations of 8 cm from each other. Slats will be placed in the gaps formed.

In the same way, assemble all 4 side, longitudinal drawers.

Prepare the boards for the slats: cut a step on both edges, half the thickness of the board and 4 cm deep. This way it will lie more stable on the beam and take up less space in height.

Step 3 - assembly and finishing

When all the parts are ready, it’s time to drill or chisel holes for dowels in the headboard, footboard, railing and end frames, as well as in the staircase posts and railings - for the mentioned parts. Connections of load-bearing elements - side frames with uprights, as well as stairs - are more reliably made using glue and self-tapping screws.

The first assembly step is the sides of the future bed, headboard and footboard.Lay 2 beams in parallel, place 6 planks between them - the upper and central headboard and footboard, end drawers. Mark the joints on each piece with a pencil. Drill holes for the dowels.

The first time, assemble all the parts without glue and not quite tightly to make sure the holes are located accurately and there are no distortions, and then disassemble

The headboard and footboard should be assembled evenly, without distortions, and be absolutely symmetrical to each other. Then they are completely disassembled and reassembled, but this time coating each fastener with glue. To fit the dowels more tightly, use a wooden or rubber mallet.

The second step is the assembly of the side and longitudinal elements. First, long fencing strips are inserted into the racks on the dowels, which separate the sleeper from the wall. Then attach the side drawers that were assembled earlier to the front side of the racks.

For convenience and checking the level, they are pre-fixed with clamps. For each connection, screw 4 self-tapping screws under the countersunk screws, recessing the caps slightly into the wood. To do this, at the joints, small recesses are pre-drilled along the diameter of the hardware head.

The third step is the installation of handrails and fencing of the second tier. The handrail is attached to the side drawers with glue and self-tapping screws, and the fence is attached to dowels.

If using flat (oval) wooden dowels, drill several holes side by side and then join them together using a chisel

The fourth and final stage of assembly is the installation of steps, decorative overlays and slats. The steps can be placed on top of the post, inserted into pre-prepared recesses, or secured with metal corners and turned horizontally.Decorative overlays are placed on glue and secured with clamps. They should fill all the gaps between the horizontal elements and level the surface of the rack at the front.

The slats are simply laid out between the spacers, without fixation. This way they will retain some elasticity. To stiffen the frame, one central transverse rail is fixed with self-tapping screws. The clamps are not removed from all joints until the glue has completely dried.

To give the bed a finished look, mask the screw heads with wooden rounds, wood putty of a suitable color, or shavings mixed with glue.

Use pre-carved fence posts for a sophisticated design. The high back of the first tier will turn it into a comfortable sofa

Sand the entire product, paying special attention to the joints of parts, corners and stairs. Clean off dust, prime and dry the bed. Cover the wood with stain, varnish or paint, and apply decor if desired.

The bunk bed is ready! All that remains is to bring it into the room, fix it with a bracket to the wall, lay down the mattresses and bed linen. Place several large pillows under the wall on the first floor and it will act as a sofa.

Drape the sides with fabric, like a canopy, and get your own little personal corner, hidden from prying eyes and drafts.

Alternative designs

In the version described above, the drawer is part of the overall frame, but often it is assembled separately. For example, the following design is possible from the same materials.

Using metal corners or glue and self-tapping screws, assemble two rectangular drawer frames, pre-attaching the support bars for the mattress to them

Just like in the previous version, you need to assemble the headboard and footboard separately.In this embodiment, the flat bars of the rack are not glued together into one, with a square cross-section, but form an angle. Two corner posts are connected by planks.

The drawer is fixed to the racks first with clamps, and then with bolts or self-tapping screws. The latter can be screwed in from the inside for invisible fastening

After installing both drawers, all the fences and stairs are attached, the slats are laid and the finishing is carried out

There is a variation of this option without slats. After assembling the drawer, with longitudinal beams, another frame is made from 60x30mm timber.

3–4 transverse struts made of the same timber are fixed in it, and the resulting bed is covered with plywood on top and bottom.

Under the mattress, take a thickness of 8 or 12 mm, and at the bottom, 4 mm is enough. For beauty, one side of the upper bed, the “ceiling” of the first tier, can be covered with fabric

This bed is placed in the drawer when the bed is fully assembled.

Children's bunk beds made of MDF can be made as a classic version, but the end parts (headboard and footboard) are made of a single sheet of material, possibly with holes. The longitudinal and side drawers are also made of MDF, but the support beam under the mattress is attached on all 4 sides of the bed, strengthening the connection of the parts.

In the manufacture of beds for adults, MDF, like laminated chipboard, is used only for decorative cladding of a frame assembled from beams. This supporting frame resembles the classic model described above, devoid of headboard, footboard and railings.

A completely alternative design is a bunk bed with hanging beds. It visually takes up much less space, but is too dangerous for small children.

In this design, the assembled drawer is screwed to the wall at several points along its entire length, and the free edge is suspended from the wall on a chain, like the top shelf in a reserved seat train car. The floating bed with illumination of the lower tier looks especially impressive.

If you are not yet ready to assemble a bunk bed, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with a simpler option pallet beds.

Ideas for creativity

Is the bed from the diagram not at all what you want? Isn't it functional and beautiful enough? Use it as a skeleton and add whatever you want.

We suggest you get ideas from the following photos.

Natural wood looks too boring and archaic, but you don’t believe in the environmental friendliness of MDF and especially laminated chipboard? Mask all fasteners and then coat the wood with bright, opaque paint.

MDF parts can be easily shaped into any shape using a jigsaw - build a castle, a yacht, an island or an entire house

To make parts of a complex, rounded shape symmetrical, make a paper template. Circle it with a dotted line, and draw the finishing cutting line under a flexible plastic strip - for example, a cable duct cover from a baseboard.

For two children, the beds can be placed perpendicularly, leaving a nook and storage space behind the stairs.

For a double bed on the first tier, strengthen the drawer with a longitudinal spacer made of timber, and place the 5th leg in the center

A bunk bed with a sofa is ideal for a living room or studio apartment. Take a ready-made sofa, screw 4 beams or MDF sheets to its armrests or instead of them and build a 2nd tier on them.

You don’t have to attach it to the wall; the heavy bottom will give stability to the structure.

For a harmonious combination, remove all decorative elements from the sofa and replace them with upholstery made of the same material as the 2nd tier

You have 1 child, you are not going to sleep with him, and there is not enough space? Make a loft bed with a work or play area instead of the first tier. This option is especially convenient if there is no separate children’s room - the younger family member will have his own personal space.

Do guests and relatives often come to you? Instead of drawers, you can hide another sleeping place under the lower tier. In fact, it consists only of a drawer to which the wheels are screwed.

The table and bedside tables can be used ready-made, factory-made, and for a harmonious look, the superstructure can be made in the same style and color

In some cases, it makes sense to “flip” this structure by arranging a play area at the top. The kids will love it there! But do not forget about reliable fencing

In small-sized and one-room apartments, even without children, you often have to abandon a full-fledged double orthopedic mattress, because it inevitably turns the entire space into a bedroom. But there is a solution: a loft bed with sufficiently reliable supports can be suitable even for two adults.

By raising the bed to the ceiling, you will create a 2-story space, with a living area, a living room or office below and a cozy bedroom above.

Not enough closet space? Create more drawers under the bed and in the steps. Make a rectangle from 4 boards and a plywood bottom, make guides from timber

Natural, unpainted wood is suitable not only for eco-style, but also for Provence, minimalism, loft and even hi-tech.

To modernize the product, choose selected grade lumber, without the slightest flaws, with an unobtrusive texture, for example, linden or alder.

Some corner designs will help you compactly and comfortably accommodate the whole family and free up space for daytime activities.

Add a rope, rope ladder or even a slide to the classic model, because a children's bunk bed is a place not only for sleeping

Fantasize and make your dreams come true, just don’t make the mistakes of others. Sleeping too high is not comfortable, it’s stuffy - leave at least 80 cm to the ceiling.

Buy mattresses in advance and adjust the dimensions of the bed to fit them. The optimal width of the stairs is 40 cm, the height of the steps is 25 cm, the sides are at least 30 cm, depending on the height of the mattress and the age of the sleeper.

We bring to your attention the article instructions: DIY sofa bed

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to assemble a bed from parts ordered in the workshop is shown in this video:

A simple design of a loft bed with a work area from purchasing material to testing the finished product:

Original bunk bed with chain hangers:

You can build a strong bunk bed with your own hands, even without extensive carpentry experience and specialized tools. If you want to turn a piece of furniture into a work of art and make it as functional as possible, you need to show your imagination and spend much more time. But the result will exactly correspond to your wishes and amaze all guests.

Have you ever made furniture with your own hands? Can you share some useful tips with novice craftsmen? Join the discussion in the comments.